Re: questions about redding dies???
The advantage of the bushing die is you can change the bushing and therefore the amount of sizing you do to the necks. They come with an expander ball but you can remove it. The less you work the brass the more likely it is to remain concentric, provided your chamber is concentric too.
The floating sleeve is the main advantage to the seater and yes it helps maintain alignment. The micrometer top is a helpful guide in seating the bullet but don't count on it to accurately depict what happens all the time. Variation in neck tension, doughnuts, rough necks, compressed loads and other factors can make the bullet seat different from the setting.
The advantage to the neck and body set is you have more control over what gets sized and when. If you aren't using a semi-auto or really hot loads then you can usually NOT size the body. This lets the case be as close to chamber dimension as possible for better alignment. The body die lets you bump the shoulder back without touching the neck. Some shoot with a tight neck chamber and don't really size the necks (or bodies) at all.
Competition neck die, seater and body die sell for $163 + sh at Midway. Extra bushings $18 ea and you will probably want .001", .002" and .003" under and you need to decide whether you will neck turn or not before getting bushings unless you wish to get several.
Your .270 may do fine at 500-1000, don't know. If your skills at reloading are up to the task then yes you can make reloads that are better than factory loads even with standard dies. Like most things, the better your equipment the easier it gets. You might want to read up on a few things first. There are a some good books out there on setting up long range rifles, precision reloading, and shooting long range. At least read up on the Audette method or ladder method of load developement preferably before you buy equipment. Then there is optimimal barrel timing, optics, and doping the wind.