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Questions about annealing cases

 
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:06 PM
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Questions about annealing cases

This is the one step in the reloading process I have never done. I bought a portable torch today and am using a battery powered drill to turn the case while I heat it. I have a few questions.

I am starting with cases that I am pretty sure are case hardened. They will not comfortably fit back into my chamber even when FL sized. I "think" I want to heat the neck and shoulder just enough that it softens them up enough that when I size them they fit back into the chamber ?

My plan is to keep track of how hot and for how long I have to heat the brass to just soften them enough to allow them to resize and fit back into the chamber. From what I have read that means getting the neck and shoulder to turn a dull red and them dunk them into water.

Any more tips or stuff for my to read ?

John
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:10 PM
KRP KRP is offline
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Good article on it here.

The Art and Science of Annealing

Practice with some old junk cases first as ruining a few isn't uncommon.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRP View Post
Good article on it here.

The Art and Science of Annealing

Practice with some old junk cases first as ruining a few isn't uncommon.
Thanks, but I already saw that one.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:47 PM
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I've got one of Ken Light's automatic machines and it almost makes annealing fun. I'd recommend it highly if it might be something you would need, or want.

Search for anneal etc. on here and you will also get a lot of good reading.
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:29 AM
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First thing is it is "dull red" in a darkened (not totally dark) room.

Second thing to rig up a stand for holding the torch and something to rest the drill on. Annealing 50-100 cases is a tiresome process.

It is somewhat difficult to get the cases dry after wards but putting them in your tumbling machine with media is not recommended. BTDT. Laying them out in the hot sun is as good as anything short of risking life and limb by getting caught using the oven.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:52 AM
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When I set up for annealing I do it in my shop with the lights off and only one small side door open. This way I can see the color change easily and get it right, and the same, each time. Even though I know where the torches are usually set, I always check to make sure I"m getting the color I want and then just set them in and let them drop out.

The nice thing with the Light system is that no water is involved so I don't have to dry anything out. I have a small air nozzle set up so that when the cases drop out into the catch pan, the cool air is flowing over them. The wheel itself takes a lot of the heat out of the case head section and the air flow cools them quite well when they drop out into the catch pan. I can do 100-200 and the cases are almost cool to the touch when I'm done.
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