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Question about seating the bullet straight

 
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  #8  
Old 12-17-2005, 09:28 AM
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Re: Question about seating the bullet straight

[ QUOTE ]
Please don't think I am disrespectful to your methods or knowledge with my comments. I do appreciate the help and I do want to persue accuracy. I just need to do it a bit at a time.


[/ QUOTE ]

No, not at all. I was just curious about your method. Do you have an RCBS Precision Mic or Stoney Point head space gauge? Another CRITICAL area (IME and Opinion) is exactly how you're setting up your sizer die. You might want to measure the headspace on 3 empties that have been fired from your rifle. Then, set up your sizer die so that you are only bumping the shoulder back no more than 0.002, with 0.001 preferred. If you follow the directions that come with the die, then you could be barely bumping the shoulder back or actually moving it 10-15 thousandths. The closer that sized brass is to your chamber, the better. Many guys neck size only and that is a great way to go until you have that one round you wish to chamber and it simply won't. Rare, but happens.

Checking your headspace is a step that should just be part of your routine, IMO. It does make a difference.

Good shooting to you!
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2005, 10:49 AM
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Re: Question about seating the bullet straight

Yes, I understand about the headspace and possibly resizing to much. That is the next tool on the "to buy" list. Which tool in your experience is the best to use for this?

I hesitate to go to neck sizing as my rifle is a AR-15 in .223, with a 20" SS heavy, not varmint, barrel. I can shoot 1"/100yd groups with it now with my reloads, but there are occasional fliers. Thus the reason for investigating this RO I've found.

You never commented on my question about seating bullets in brass that are sized without an expander. Is it possible to seat bullets without shaving copper, I mean it must be, but do you have to chamfer the inside of the case month a lot more?

Thanks again for the help and advice. Don't stop, I'm listening, er... reading.
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  #10  
Old 12-17-2005, 12:15 PM
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Re: Question about seating the bullet straight

DerekM,Iv'e been turning necks on all brands of brass for years and one thing I've learned is that just because the next batch is Lapua it doesn't mean you don't need to turn the necks. In the last two weeks I've turned two different lots of 6BR Norma brass,100 6.5-284,and 120pcs. 308win.Norma brass.
the first batch of 6BR brass was .00175 thicker on one side of the neck.(measured w/Starrett ball mic.). The next 100 6BR the necks were the best i've seen. they were off .00075 and could probably have been loaded accurately without neckturning.
The 6.5-284 brass was out nearly .003 from side to side and I don't think you could expect low run out without neck turning them. The 120 brass in 308win. were from two lots 20 of one lot 100 from another. the 20 were well under .001 diff.from side to side, the 100 were off over .003 same brand different lot.
In the middle of this I did 100pcs of 300 RUM brass from a new shipment at Sportsman warehouse and the necks were better (.0006) and more consistent than the mega buck brands. I realise that the Rem. brass was a fluke but I was just trying to make a point. NOBODY MAKES PERFECT BRASS
If you use a bushing die with no expander ball on unturned brass the outside of the neck is round but the inside of the neck is oval shaped. That can't be a good thing!
So use a bushing die but always turn the necks.
Im with you on the seat and turn bullet seating method. It works for reducing R.O.-----7mmrhb
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2005, 09:40 AM
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Re: Question about seating the bullet straight

[ QUOTE ]
You never commented on my question about seating bullets in brass that are sized without an expander. Is it possible to seat bullets without shaving copper, I mean it must be, but do you have to chamfer the inside of the case month a lot more?


[/ QUOTE ]

Sure, but you need a good coating inside the neck including the brass mouth where you chamferred. There are several ways to do it. I use graphite suspended in alcohol. There's a guy who makes the stuff in California. I just use a good chamfering tool, and use a q-tip, dab it in the suspension and roll it in the case mouth. I've pulled bullets after seating to see for myself if any copper was shaved and there wasn't any. Don't get aggressive with chamfering.

[ QUOTE ]
Which tool in your experience is the best to use for this?


[/ QUOTE ]

I use the RCBS Precision Mic.
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2005, 09:46 AM
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Re: Question about seating the bullet straight

[ QUOTE ]
DerekM,Iv'e been turning necks on all brands of brass for years and one thing I've learned is that just because the next batch is Lapua it doesn't mean you don't need to turn the necks.

[/ QUOTE ]

This is true but for my purposes, I have 30.06 Lapua brass and my .06 is not a long range rifle. I bought the brass on sale and have seen no reason to go the extra mile with it because where I take the .06, I do not shoot beyond 300 yards. I've got consistent 5/8" groups with the 168 TSX bullet and it prints just over 2" groups with rapid chambering and a bipod at 330 yards. This is sufficient for my hunting grounds in KY and MO.
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  #13  
Old 12-18-2005, 10:09 AM
 
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Re: Question about seating the bullet straight

Is the Lee dead length bullet seating die any good?
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2005, 12:10 PM
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Re: Question about seating the bullet straight

I cannot answer that. I do not use any Lee equipment. All of my dies are either custom or Redding. Custom dies are best but you might sink $400 into them, and most folks won't do that and do not need to. I have had zero problems with my Redding micrometer seating dies.
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