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Pics of my first annealling attmept

 
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2008, 10:37 AM
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Let us know how it goes

Not to hijack this thread. Can you anneal cases over a single burner porpane camping stove?

I was thinking it would not get hot enough, fast enough to do any good without heating the whole case.

Did you turn the cases while annealing them in the tourch?
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2008, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willys46 View Post
Not to hijack this thread. Can you anneal cases over a single burner porpane camping stove?
Maybe. I don't think it will get the case neck hot enough fast enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willys46 View Post
Did you turn the cases while annealing them in the torch?
Yes, in the bushing that comes with the Hornady annealing kit using a cordless drill.
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2008, 02:29 PM
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Here is how I did it. I used a deep 12 point 9/16 socket, it fits my 300 WBY cases perfectly. The drill is a cordless. I made sure the flame was adjusted the same each time and the same distance from the case. I will know if I did any good when I test them Saturday.
The rifles in the pic are my 300 WBY (nearest) and .308 I built when I was in the Marine Corps as a police sniper rifle



I took the 300 out last Saturday to test some loads at 300 yards. It was hot as heck out 90+ so the mirage was an issue, had a light switching wind as well. That said the rifle wants to shoot. Of the 27 rounds I fired 23 were pretty good to excellent. I think the rifle will agg. 1 in with this load at 300 yards in perfect conditions, if I do my part.
I am shooting 210 Berger's at a little over 3000 fps with 80 grains of 7828. The groups on the right are .010 off the lands and on the left they are .020 off.

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Last edited by Marine sniper; 07-15-2008 at 02:45 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2008, 09:00 PM
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good use of a book and noting stuff down. i should really start doing this properly
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2008, 10:29 PM
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Setup looks good to me, but you need to quench the cases immediately.
Shake them out of the socket into a pan of water. The fast quench will not harden them at all, but it will stop the heat from creeping down the case. Someone mentioned not getting the base of the cartridge hot. They are correct. If the base is softened, it will flow and maybe rupture when fired. The base and body are intentionally left work-hardened when they are made because that part of the case needs the higher strength. The neck and shoulder don't.

I used to fire .308 match brass (in a match rifle) until they wouldn't hold a primer. I was full-length resizing, so I annealed after 3-4 firings. I set them upright in an aluminum baking pan, about 50 at a time, in water just below the shoulder. Heated them with a propane torch until they looked like yours do, and then immediately tapped the heated case over into the water with the side of the torch head. You don't have to do that, but I think it helps make them uniform and grip the bullet more consistently. It also instantly stops the oxidation.

I very much like the setup you have for rotating them while heating, but you might try my method for comparison. Whatever you settle on, I recommend you quench them immediately.

Good shooting, Tom
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  #13  
Old 07-18-2008, 11:21 PM
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I will try quenching them next time, thanks
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