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Optimal neck tension for hunting

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  #8  
Unread 05-19-2009, 10:25 PM
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Re: Optimal neck tension for hunting

Kris C,
I had the same problem when I started reloading years ago. I took care of the problem by switching to Redding dies with a neck bushing which allows you to set the tension to fit your application. The neck bushings are interchangeable to allow you to change the tension. For my hunting ammo I measure a loaded round and subtract .002 and use that size bushing for my brass. That usually allows for the right amount of ''spring back'' when sizing the necks. You can use them in a version of the full length sizing die or a neck die. A good way to check to see if the tension is too loose is to take a finished round and hold the tip of the bullet against your work bench. Push it gently against the bench, if it goes deeper into the case it is too loose. You can also ''learn'' the feel when seating the bullets, if the fit is too loose or too tight. Go to Redding's web site and this is described there also. This cured my problem hope it helps you.
Casing
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  #9  
Unread 05-20-2009, 07:12 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
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Re: Optimal neck tension for hunting

That helps. I have been loading for a coulple of years now but always crimped. It was tearing my brass up and figured there had to be a better way. Even if you just lightly crimp it squeezes brass up and it has to be trimmed off everytime. Since I started not crimping I hardly have to trim. I will check out the Redding dies. Do you size with out the expander ball? Seems like most guys that use the bushing dies don't. Thanks for the info.
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  #10  
Unread 05-20-2009, 09:36 AM
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Re: Optimal neck tension for hunting

I use the carbide sizing button which is an additional piece to purchase. It seems to make sizing smoother and you do not have to use neck lubricant. Some people do not use them but I have had very good luck sizing my cases this way. I check my cases for concentricity and with the Redding dies they are almost always perfect.
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  #11  
Unread 05-20-2009, 03:51 PM
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Re: Optimal neck tension for hunting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris C View Post
I spoke with Lee today and told them I was having issues with neck tension on some of my loads. The mandrel in ever one of my dies is -.002 less than the caliber. The bullet is seated well but you can push it in if you want by hand. I did a test with loaded rounds in the magazine and one of the rounds in my .257 WB pulled out some. I have used the factory crimp dies and they tear up the case. It needs to be trimmed alot everytime. I got away from using them and I am just concerned with the bullets staying put when in my pack or magazine. I loaded some Bergers today and have spotty tension. I read an article on this site by Jerry Teo that said Lee dies will give you "that 4-5 thousandths of neck tension you need'. So I took the mandrel out of my .280 die and honed it down from .282 to .280. This obviously gives me 4 thousandths neck tension. I cannot move the bullet by hand. This is the same kind of tension I have experienced on factory amo that is crimped in a canelure. Lee said I could hone the die down for more tension but said I should use the crimp die. Seems to me honing it down does the same thing but keeps your brass in better shape. Any feedback??? What do you guys use for neck tension?
If you can mike the outside on a new 257Wby case it more than likely be .280/.279. I use bushing dies with out the expander saves on having to work the necks too much. I use a .280 bushing for the 257Wby cases I have so far have 5 firing on some cases neck tension still good.
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  #12  
Unread 05-20-2009, 05:20 PM
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Re: Optimal neck tension for hunting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris C View Post
I spoke with Lee today and told them I was having issues with neck tension on some of my loads. The mandrel in ever one of my dies is -.002 less than the caliber. The bullet is seated well but you can push it in if you want by hand. I did a test with loaded rounds in the magazine and one of the rounds in my .257 WB pulled out some. I have used the factory crimp dies and they tear up the case. It needs to be trimmed alot everytime. I got away from using them and I am just concerned with the bullets staying put when in my pack or magazine. I loaded some Bergers today and have spotty tension. I read an article on this site by Jerry Teo that said Lee dies will give you "that 4-5 thousandths of neck tension you need'. So I took the mandrel out of my .280 die and honed it down from .282 to .280. This obviously gives me 4 thousandths neck tension. I cannot move the bullet by hand. This is the same kind of tension I have experienced on factory amo that is crimped in a canelure. Lee said I could hone the die down for more tension but said I should use the crimp die. Seems to me honing it down does the same thing but keeps your brass in better shape. Any feedback??? What do you guys use for neck tension?
I prefer .004 smaller for the expander because it gives me the same results as crimping
without the wear on the brass.

And with spring back it still has enough tension to hold the bullet for consistent ignition.

If you seat against the lands then it is not necessary except to hold the bullet in case you
have to extract a loaded round to prevent dumping powder in your action.

J E CUSTOM
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  #13  
Unread 05-20-2009, 09:51 PM
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Join Date: May 2008
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Re: Optimal neck tension for hunting

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Casing View Post
I use the carbide sizing button which is an additional piece to purchase. It seems to make sizing smoother and you do not have to use neck lubricant. Some people do not use them but I have had very good luck sizing my cases this way. I check my cases for concentricity and with the Redding dies they are almost always perfect.
I use the button too on my Redding neck die. Do you put a rubber "O" ring on top of it?
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  #14  
Unread 05-20-2009, 09:57 PM
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Re: Optimal neck tension for hunting

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffalobob View Post
Go here and do this:

Annealing Cases
BB, I know of a lot of very expeirenced and accomplished shooters that swear by annealing and I also had a conversation with a very well known and accomplished custom die maker that told me not to anneal because everytime you anneal it's like starting over. He is also a shooter and says he has used his brass for 40 cycles or more without annealing.

Any thoughts?

-MR
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