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Reloading Techniques For Reloading


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new to wildcatting...help!

 
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  #36  
Old 04-06-2005, 08:54 AM
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Location: west of Little Rock ,Ark.
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Re: new to wildcatting...help!

Jerry, Please, anytime! I appreciate the experience.The more I can learn from others exp. the less I spin my wheels.Granted the Lapua brass was 40 something per 100 vs 20 something for Win.,however at the volume I get to shoot at this is insignificant.One thing I do need is a vld taper tool If I plan on shooting the 107smk's or similar(is this correct?)thanks again ,Jim
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  #37  
Old 04-06-2005, 11:00 AM
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Re: new to wildcatting...help!

VLD neck reamer - go down to your local hardward store and find a 1/2" tapered reamer. About 5" long and goes from a point to around 1/2" at the top. They have a T handle made with a piece of rod. Simple and cheap. Works great for removing those nasty crimps in surplus brass too.

Jerry
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  #38  
Old 04-06-2005, 12:21 PM
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Re: new to wildcatting...help!

CP,

The Lapua brass is annealed. Split necks won't develop from forming in the AI chamber.
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Brent Moffitt
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  #39  
Old 04-07-2005, 08:36 AM
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Re: new to wildcatting...help!

Jimm,
The expander mandrel IS used in response to neck turning.
I use a K&M neck turning set up, of which the expander is sized about .0005" to .001" bigger then the neck turner mandrel so as to allow for brass spring back and to obtain a precise fit on the neck turning mandrel.
This expander mounts into a 7/8x14 body for use in your usaual press.

As Jerry said, after neck turning once you have selectd the appropriate bushing and run your case through the die, sizing is complete.
Do not use an expander button otherwise you will knacker up every thing you did with your neck turning and sizing.

Again just broadening on what Jerry said, on withdrawing an expander button out of a case it is possible to stretch the neck and shoulder area. I've added a couple of pics which might help [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Ian.

Here is the expander in the foreground, with interchangeable mandrels for .224 and .300, the screws are depth adjusters.


Here is a necked turned 243.
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  #40  
Old 04-08-2005, 09:35 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Utah
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Not to worry............

The .243AI is a good cartridge. It's not a wildcat...factory ammunition can be fired in the chamber which makes it an "improved" and not a wildcat. Forming brass is easy - it's really just loading and shooting. DON'T use pistol powder or reduced loads or any of that stuff. Just start with a near top-end load for the standard .243 and go up 1/2gr at a time until you find what's most accurate. Your load will probably be somewhat more than max for a standard .243 which is ok...a max load for the standard case is a mild load for an improved. You'll have to find out exactly where your accuracy is by trying. Look in the reloading manual and choose a powder that gives high velocity. Fireform load for both my guns was 48.3-48.7/W760/70grTNT/CCI250primer. Winchester 760 has given excellent accuracy and velocity in that size case. The standard .243 case is kind of semi-improved to begin with...firing in the improved chamber blows the shoulder forward a ways and it becomes much steeper, but only increases a little in diameter. Your "fireforming" loads should be very accurate and have much better velocity than a standard .243. Think of fireforming ammunition not as "fireforming" but as working ammunition, because that's what it is. And DON'T mess with fillers - malto meal, cream o wheat, or any other such nonsense - the'y're a waste of time and components and result in partially-formed cases at worst and less-than-perfectly-formed cases at best.

Once you're shooting formed cases, reloading is no different than with any other cartridge. Your brass should never need trimming.
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