I got my redding competition dies through midway, however the last time I bought reloading supplies for the 6.5, they were out of stock for a few Items. One thing you might want to check into for a seating die are Z-hat custom seaters. They are very user friendly, and can accomodate any caliber/cartridge from 22 to 7mm. I've used this seater exclusively with my 6.5-284 and have gotten plenty of sub 1/4 inch groups.
Ok guys, now I'm confused......
Geez, I up grade to a Lilja bbl, and have it installed by a knowledgeable smith, it now out shoots any factory 40X and a couple of custom BR rifles I had years ago. Then, there's the better scope (Mil-Dot) for reaching out, then the LRF for knowing how far I'm reaching out (640 yds - so far), then the better spotting scope, now it looks like Competition dies.......
I went to the sinclair link and looked at the dies. They sure are different than the 40 yr-old Lachmiller's I'm using . [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
What's this bushing idea? I am shooting a 270 Win. It's a factory chamber, no tight neck, maker doesn't go there in that cal. Would a competition seater make any difference?
Also, I sort brass by weight, turn necks just enough to get uniformity. Some days groups are in the 1s, just a few, some days groups are in the 2s a few more days, most days groups are in the 5s and 6s. Its the days that one shot makes it a 7 or 8 that I'm looking for something to blame it on.
I may be the slowest guy on the mountain . . . . but . . . . I'm on the mountain!
Roy in Id,
I know what you mean about the never ending list of stuff that just seems to upgrade every year. I need a semi-trailer now just to haul my stuff around on rock chuck trips!
The idea of bushings is nothing complicated. It is just a way of controling the neck tension or bullet grip of the case. It also makes your cases last longer because you are controlling how much work hardening your brass is undergoing. As far as the comp seater goes, they are awesome. They have a floating sleeve that supports the entire case while the bullet is being seated, thus maintaining bullet/case runout. Normal seaters can ruin concentricity sometimes.
I would venture to guess that your mystery accuracy from day to day could be caused by many things, but bullet grip tension could be one possibility. It could also be temp changes affecting pressures. Your going to have to run a process of elimination until you find the problem.
The Redding bushing dies have a countersunk hole in the top of the die that you access by removing the decapping stem. You then just drop the right size bushing into the hole, and screw the decapping stem back into the die body. You figure the size of the bushing by measuring the loaded round, and then subtract the amount you want for bullet grip.
Example: Your loaded round measures .251" diameter on the neck, and you want .001" bullet grip (which is what I've found to be the most accurate most of the time) then you buy a .250 bushing. If you are ramming your ammo hard from the magazine into the chamber, you would probably want .002-.003" bullet grip so you would get a .248" or .249" bushing.
I always neck size until my ammo won't fit in the chamber anymore, then I just slightly bump the shoulder back about .001" with a body die. I very rarely use FL dies. I have found that they have a tendancy to make your loaded ammo somewhat out of round. Redding makes bushing neck dies, competition neck bushing dies, competition bushing FL dies, body (bump) dies, regular FL dies, and regular neck dies. Basically, anything that says competition on it has a micrometer on top and a floating sleeve. This is ideal, but I have loaded ammo with no runout using just the standard "S" bushing dies and a comp seater.
It might get confusing with the names of all these dies, but if you get lost, just look at www.reddingreloading.com, or leave another post! The only dumb question is the one not asked! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]