Re: Neck turning & annealing question
HAND NECK TURNING IS FOR MORONS AND THOSE THAT WISH TO DEVELOP CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME AND VERY SORE FINGERS. A little harsh but seriously. Use a Sinclair case driver (15$) in a power drill at low RPM. Works like a charm and is a way smoother finish. See the neck turning video on Youtube by ammosmith if you don't believe me! Good series for all viewing if you ask me (no plug intended). Turn that older brass only IF it has some life left.
When to neck turn: new brass with expander mandrel and/or ONLY appropriately neck-sized older brass to fit snugly on the mandrel. Loose/tight fitting brass on the mandrel actually seemed to increase case runout and ruin inside necks with my experience.
Most factory dies put way too much neck tension on. I have found that 0.001-0.0015 thou neck turning reduces this increased neck tension (by uniforming neck thickness). If neck turning uniforms neck tension, then without a doubt it should help to smooth out ES and SD making each shot more predictable and hence more accurate irregardless of the dreaded "factory" barrel..... Poor accuracy of factory barrels IMHO has more to do with piss poor lapping, inconsistent bore diameter, and horizontal tool marks IN the barrel and not how "sloppy" the neck is.
Since working brass makes it harder, maybe we should anneal after every step! Or maybe we can be practical. Maybe we should anneal after every firing "IF" we own a Ken Light annealing machine, are maniac wildcatters, or desire a national BR title. Otherwise we probably should anneal only as needed (i.e. after every 3-5 firings) to prevent split necks and extend brass life. Hand annealing is bound to introduce brass inconsistencies and slightly harder/softer necks.