In my experience, neck turning is best done before the first round is loaded. If using the Forster ( I still use mine from 1970), plan on two passes to skim cut the neck. Lube the pilot to avoid heat build up and check for total roundness which is the purpose of neck turning in a factory chamber.
After you have fired and resized, the cartridge may show some length growth which is why and when you trim the length of the brass. After so doing, lightly chamfer the inside of the case mouth to seat flat base bullets easier. BT's may not require--.
What Reloading manuals do you have? I will be glad to assist. if necessary.
Cordially and best wishes, Overbore
Member, Revolutionary War Veterans Association
thankyou for the reply. I have three boxes of cases [remington] fired from my rifle [270 win] I would like to start reloading for. Neck sizing only was recommended [lee collet], but I have no experience with neck turning and would like to learn and add to my reloading.
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You can set the Forster trimmer/neck turner to do both at the same time, but for 60 cases it's not worth the trouble to set it up. Do one step, then the other.
Why are you going to turn the necks - do you have a tight neck chamber?
Some years back, it was believed that turning was mandated for accuracy, but that belief has wained, and the current trend is towards "no turn necks", and away from neck turning except in competition rifles used at very long range, with custom chambers.
If you have a factory grade rifle, with a standard factory chamber, you will NOT see a difference.
Also... neck turning with some calibers can cause more problems than it is supposed to solve.
If you are turning a case, and using bullets whose base is seated below the shoulder/neck junction, you will run into the "dreaded donut" problem, which is a pain in the ass to remove.
The donut is a remaining brass ring that is left after neck turning. When you turn the neck, you lessen the outside diameter of ~90% of the neck - you can not do it all, cuz you can't cut past the shoulder junction.
When you size the neck, the remaining 10% now gets pushed into the neck, and forms a ring just under the shoulder/neck junction.
This ring of brass causes problems bullet seating, the severity of which will depend on the chamber dimensions.
It is a pain in the ass to remove, cus you need inside reamers that are the exact size of the inside of the sized neck... and it's a bitch to solve that problem, unless you have the full set of tools for it...
... K&M makes the full set of sizers, expanders, mandrels, reamers... for about $100 +/-.
If the seated bullets don't extend to the base of the case, you can leave the donut there.
I'm not opposed to neck turning... I have three Forster neck turning lathes, and my last "turning" project was 1,100 Lapua cases for a 0.262" tight neck 6mmBR. It really sucked, and took all winter!
But I will tell you that I will never order a tight neck chamber again, and I do NOT turn cases for match grade chambers if I can get decent brass for the caliber.
If I can't get match grade brass like Lapua, I would rather by extra Winchester, measure the necks, and use the odd ones for early load development, and then toss them in the trash. In the end, it is cheaper and faster.
If you do turn necks, the cases should be once fired, or at least FL sized and then run over an expander mandrel, like the ones sold by K&M or Sinclair... if you turn new brass, out of the box, you will wind up turning off the lumps and bumps, and have uneven brass once it is fired.
Neck turning can be a Pandora's box, and unloose a nightmare of problems - and it is not the panacea of accuracy that many claim.
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Last edited by CatShooter; 11-01-2007 at 08:17 AM.
has it about right but has neglected to include total run out measurement in hi amplified and good response. If you get away from neck turning and accep the fact that there are "bananna shaped cases" out there, the quick mens to hunting accuracy is to measure the total runout of your loaded rounds and separate then into groups. Mark all of them on the head with an indelible marker and load all in the same position in your chamber every shot.. For example, load all the "marks" at 6 or 12 o'clock.
Use four broad runout groups.
I am primarily a benchrest shooter of the 300wsm and well familiar with and highly suggest the K&M Services, 717-292-3175, carbide fluted cuter to both turn and eliminate the dreaded donut simultaneously. I also use their expander so that we are using an apples to apples comparison starting with a round neck on the inside.
When you run a cartridge case through a sizing die, the brass has only one way to go which is toward the neck ( length ) which is why we must trim after checking with a good case length gage. If the neck is baove th egage length, trim it.
When you are ready to move up, I use Redding dies with a bushing for seating. Check out their web and have a look at Accurate Reloading and Benchrest Central. Best wishes, Overbore
Member, Revolutionary War Veterans Association