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Reloading Techniques For Reloading


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More reloading issues

 
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  #15  
Old 05-02-2012, 06:22 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NC, oceanfront
Posts: 3,165
Re: More reloading issues

Quote:
Theres no way that all my hornady brass is that weak after being shot once is there?
Depends more on your load and chamber than brass. That is, unless you annealed low on the cases before firing them.

Quote:
even though it fires factory ammo fine?
How does firing factory ammo fine correlate to bad hornady brass?

I seriously doubt there is anything wrong with the brass. The fact that the fired brass chambers fine while indexed to a favorable position discounts brass as the issue.
It points to a problem with your barrel, or chamber, and/or action.

Tell us about the gun & load
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2012, 07:33 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 564
Re: More reloading issues

You sanded down the web area and the case chambered... so here's the issue:

You're not getting enough sizing on the case.

Check OAL of these cases also. I'll bet they're longer than 3.715", which is the Lapua factory length. I've found some of the Hornady cases I've shot come out of the chamber at 3.740" !! WAY over length.

And I'll bet you something else... you cannot slip a bullet into the neck of the fired Hornady case, its neck is so thick and the Savage chamber so tight that the neck isn't releasing the bullet until pressures darn near spike. (You're sanding the wrong end of the case, perhaps!)

On the sizing issue...

Just because you screw the die into the press until it touches the shell holder, that does not mean you're getting enough sizing on the case. While it is true that a fired case should re-chamber easily enough, if they're being shot over-pressure (for the reasons I mentioned earlier), they'll stretch too much and need a FULL resizing... here's how to make sure you're getting it done:

You want to turn your sizing die in about 1/8 turn, in increments, FARTHER than the shell holder will allow with no case in the die. Then try to chamber the case... if it resists chambering, turn in another 1/8 turn and repeat. The press must still cam over each time, of course...

You see, when the die goes into the case, that puts the press under a load and you'll see that even though the ram goes all the way up, there is a sliver... a tiny gap between the die base and the shell holder. This happens because once the press gets under a load (from inserting the case into the die), the linkage "springs" a bit, and doesn't bring the ram up as far as it does with no case in the die.

So turn the die in a bit farther than you think you need to. That'll cause the case to be sized at the web area, which is what you're missing.

Trim the Hornady cases to 3.715"... turn the necks a bit, or at least take off half a thousandth or so off the outside of the case neck, so that it can relax enough the release the bullet (do this only if you find that a bullet won't slip into the case mouth of a fired case)...

Then relegate the Hornady cases to lighter pressure duty, maybe looking for 2500 fps from 300 grain bullets... or 2600 from 250's... that should make them last quite a bit longer.

If you want to put the pedal to the metal... get some Lapua brass.

Please write back in response so we'll know how this issue is going...

Dan
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  #17  
Old 05-02-2012, 10:18 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 28
Re: More reloading issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by green 788 View Post
You sanded down the web area and the case chambered... so here's the issue:

You're not getting enough sizing on the case.

Check OAL of these cases also. I'll bet they're longer than 3.715", which is the Lapua factory length. I've found some of the Hornady cases I've shot come out of the chamber at 3.740" !! WAY over length.

And I'll bet you something else... you cannot slip a bullet into the neck of the fired Hornady case, its neck is so thick and the Savage chamber so tight that the neck isn't releasing the bullet until pressures darn near spike. (You're sanding the wrong end of the case, perhaps!)

On the sizing issue...

Just because you screw the die into the press until it touches the shell holder, that does not mean you're getting enough sizing on the case. While it is true that a fired case should re-chamber easily enough, if they're being shot over-pressure (for the reasons I mentioned earlier), they'll stretch too much and need a FULL resizing... here's how to make sure you're getting it done:

You want to turn your sizing die in about 1/8 turn, in increments, FARTHER than the shell holder will allow with no case in the die. Then try to chamber the case... if it resists chambering, turn in another 1/8 turn and repeat. The press must still cam over each time, of course...

You see, when the die goes into the case, that puts the press under a load and you'll see that even though the ram goes all the way up, there is a sliver... a tiny gap between the die base and the shell holder. This happens because once the press gets under a load (from inserting the case into the die), the linkage "springs" a bit, and doesn't bring the ram up as far as it does with no case in the die.

So turn the die in a bit farther than you think you need to. That'll cause the case to be sized at the web area, which is what you're missing.

Trim the Hornady cases to 3.715"... turn the necks a bit, or at least take off half a thousandth or so off the outside of the case neck, so that it can relax enough the release the bullet (do this only if you find that a bullet won't slip into the case mouth of a fired case)...

Then relegate the Hornady cases to lighter pressure duty, maybe looking for 2500 fps from 300 grain bullets... or 2600 from 250's... that should make them last quite a bit longer.

If you want to put the pedal to the metal... get some Lapua brass.

Please write back in response so we'll know how this issue is going...

Dan
Ive done exactly what you said to do and to no avail. I havent tried the lapua brass yet but I think its the rifle. The only problem is that Savage wont recognize any warrenty issues if it shoots factory ammo. Whats a guy to do? It would be better for me to buy another rifle than pay to get the old one fixed.
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2012, 10:20 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 28
Re: More reloading issues

Is there any way to have the brass sized entirely back to factory specs?
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2012, 10:34 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Missouri Ozarks
Posts: 418
Re: More reloading issues

Hey Dino,
If the chamber is out of round then Savage should fix it. I hope they would take care of it.
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  #20  
Old 05-02-2012, 12:05 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: greenwood, IN
Posts: 3,544
Re: More reloading issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
Why?

Being a toolmaker by trade and business, I disagree with your statement (using the upper jaw for measurement). It's not proper or accepted, but then I wonder how many people really know the proper use of a micrometer......

Jaw calipers were designed primarily to remove the 'human factor' when measuring. No need to develop the proper 'feel' for thimble tension.

I'm curious as to why a micrometer should be used however.... Please elaborate....
Just a thought on the measuring method only. The upper part of the jaws are flat, and roughly .125" thick (maybe more), but the body of the case is tapered. You can never get a consistent reading by this method. The lower part of the jaws is much thinner and the flat is about .025". This is better but still not all that accurate as well. I would make myself a bushing to measure over with the correct I.D.
gary
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  #21  
Old 05-02-2012, 12:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 3,421
Re: More reloading issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trickymissfit View Post
Just a thought on the measuring method only. The upper part of the jaws are flat, and roughly .125" thick (maybe more), but the body of the case is tapered. You can never get a consistent reading by this method. The lower part of the jaws is much thinner and the flat is about .025". This is better but still not all that accurate as well. I would make myself a bushing to measure over with the correct I.D.
gary
Thanks for the input Gary...as usual. I tend to shoot from the hip on shop questions.

In lieu of any busing, a thread mike would work or double ball ends on the spindle and anvil (on a mike0.
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