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Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

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  #8  
Unread 05-23-2009, 11:02 PM
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Re: Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

Ryan,
I'm guessing your rifle is still pretty new. Give the barrel a chance to season. Give it a good break-in/cleaning routine. The first .300 WM Sendero that I owned shot about like yours is doing. I probably ran around 100 rds through it before it started coming around. I was starting to worry because I already had a Sendero in 7mmRM that was shooting lights out. I couldn't understand why this one wouldn't shoot. Some barrels take longer to come around than others.
The .300WM that I currently have shoots great with 180gn Ballistic Tips and 69.0gn H4350 (.3's). It wasn't the fastest load but was the most accurate with this powder. I then tried RL22 with the same bullet and it wouldn't group for crap. I tried from 73.0 up to 76.0gn and accuracy never got better than .675".
My stepson gave me a box of 180gn SMK's for my anniversary and with 75.5gn's of RL22/9.5M they shoot in the .3's. I shot five rounds today and velocities were 3121/3123/3124/3132/3163 (avg.3133).
I pretty much run all my bullets for all my rifles .010" off the LaG's, unless it's a VLD type or just too short to touch. I usually play around with the powder charge or type (burn rate) until I find one that vibrates the right way everytime Hang in there man, it will get better. JohnnyK.
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  #9  
Unread 05-23-2009, 11:12 PM
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Re: Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

The barrel is still in good shape with only 50-75 rounds down the tube.

I clean it after around 20-25 shots...i have been using Hoppes #9...is this good enough?

Will you please explain what the direction of the movement tells you. If it as a vert movement vs a horizontal movement...like this one on my sons 308 i have been working on. It is a remington 700P, 168 grain moly a-max. 44gr varget,seated .035. 5 shot group.


thanks again for the info.
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  #10  
Unread 05-23-2009, 11:15 PM
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Re: Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 338 LEGEND View Post
I have a 300WM that loves rl-22 and 180 gr accubonds, I dont like to give powder charges but seeing you have already shot 75 grains here goes.
74.0 gr RL-22 WITH 180GR ACCUBONDS and a fed-215 primer. I would start .010 of the lands and move in .002 incerments. I have shot this load in three rifles and all shot better then moa at 100 yards just had to play with the bullet depth, all were with in .010 of the lands.
Thanks for the input...I have had 0 luck finding federal primers....i have 800 BR-2's....how much difference should i expect?
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  #11  
Unread 05-23-2009, 11:20 PM
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Re: Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyk View Post
Ryan,
I'm guessing your rifle is still pretty new. Give the barrel a chance to season. Give it a good break-in/cleaning routine. The first .300 WM Sendero that I owned shot about like yours is doing. I probably ran around 100 rds through it before it started coming around. I was starting to worry because I already had a Sendero in 7mmRM that was shooting lights out. I couldn't understand why this one wouldn't shoot. Some barrels take longer to come around than others.
The .300WM that I currently have shoots great with 180gn Ballistic Tips and 69.0gn H4350 (.3's). It wasn't the fastest load but was the most accurate with this powder. I then tried RL22 with the same bullet and it wouldn't group for crap. I tried from 73.0 up to 76.0gn and accuracy never got better than .675".
My stepson gave me a box of 180gn SMK's for my anniversary and with 75.5gn's of RL22/9.5M they shoot in the .3's. I shot five rounds today and velocities were 3121/3123/3124/3132/3163 (avg.3133).
I pretty much run all my bullets for all my rifles .010" off the LaG's, unless it's a VLD type or just too short to touch. I usually play around with the powder charge or type (burn rate) until I find one that vibrates the right way everytime Hang in there man, it will get better. JohnnyK.
It is still pretty new and it sounds like you have found a couple great loads....i do have some SGK's in 180....not sure how much the difference is compared to the SMK's.....
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  #12  
Unread 05-24-2009, 01:09 AM
WRG WRG is offline
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Re: Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

AtownBcat,

Everybody has their own way of working up loads and I'm no different. How I do it is, I seat the bullets OAL at max SAMMI spec while trying to find a powder that will give me a grouping that is 1.5" CTC "center to center" or better. I will choose three powders that are known to perform best for the caliber and bullet weight that I'm working with. In the case of the 300wm IMR4831, RL-22, RL-19 all will do the job as well as many others but nine times out of ten your rifle will prefer one better over the others. Keeping in mind the bullets BC and the volocity needed for that bullet to perform is key. Like others have said you really need to develope loads over a chronograph or your just guessing and wasting time & money. If it's at all possible you may want to try WLRM primers along side those BR2 your using. I have had much better velocity SD/ES with the WLRM primers in my 300wm. Once I have found a powder that is exceptable then I will work on the seating depth. But first you will need to figure out your rifles free bore before hand so you know your limit and to make sure you can chamber the round from the mag.

While I had the bullet seated at SAMMI spec I took a "ojive measurement" for future referance. I then take that measurement and move the bullet 0.010 closer to the lands until it starts to group tighter "if they will". If they won't that rifle won't shoot those bullets and you need to move on to another bullet. I find more often that not that a ballistic tip / boat tail bullet will shoot better for obvious reasons but you also have to consider the game you will be hunting. If this is a Whitetail load your working up the BTBT will work perfectly. I shoot only Barnes TTSX or Nosler BT bullets.

Are these the only bullets you have shot through this barrel and did it get a proper break in?

All new barrels need to be "home registered" if it is to shoot right for the life of the barrel! If you only have 50 - 75 rounds through it I would do a proper break-in procedure with some cheap copper jacketed bullets first. As far as cleaning goes Hopps#9 does not clean moly or copper from a barrel it cleans carbon only! You need to use a solvent that does. Moly magic made by Bore tech will do the job. A good copper cleaner is Sweets. Clean the barrel totally free of moly, carbon and any copper before starting the break-in for best results. Like johnnyK said some barrels may require 100 to as many as 200 rounds before they settle in. Once the copper fouling drops off your barrel should be properly broken in.

Hope this helps

WRG
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  #13  
Unread 05-24-2009, 01:29 AM
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Re: Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

Give the br-2 primers a try with the 74.0 gr of RL-22 should work alright. let me know how it turns out.
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  #14  
Unread 05-24-2009, 03:03 AM
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Re: Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.

AtownBcat,

I have a Sako 85 Finnlight in 300 WSM that is "guaranteed" to shoot sub MOA 5 shot groups. It doesn't. It's been to the factory once and came back with a "computer generated target" that said it fired a .9 MOA, 5 shot group. I have tried numerous (dozens) of handload and factory combinations in this rifle and my results are close to what you are posting. The rifle just flat out does not shoot much better than my Ruger Redhawk. And it's not me. I have shot tight groups out of other rifles that cost a lot less and I had freind who is a fairly good shot shoot the rifle with the same load as me. His 5 shot group with the same ammo was about 0.15 better than my group and still over the 1 MOA Sako guarantee. Bottom line... this rifle just does not shoot. And "maybe" that's the problem with yours?

One very important thing to remember in this game is that, not every rifle shoots the same as another with a particular load. The Nosler/Barnes/Hodgden.... etc., loading manuals and guides are nothing more than relative references. When developing a load you should always start at a conservative low beginning point. From there, you should work up to your max.

So here is where things get interesting... What is max? Some people migh tuse a chronograph and some might use other signs. My concern with chronographs and velocity is that there a many variables that play into it. Not the least of which is what particular chrony are you using and how accurate is it? If you spend all day at the range, shooting one load through the same rifle you will et varying velocites, guaranteed. This is because of different light and heat conditions... not ot mention the difference between different makes and models of chronys... and what I recently found out, as in the last week, battery strength and life. When I switched batteries, my velociteis jumped 50 fps. I personally use indicators like bilt stiffness, cratered primers, etc... however, these are not completely reliable indicators either, but so far I haven't blasted my face off yet.

Reloading is a complex game and there are a lot of variables in it.

IMO, your groups dont look like you have a problem with recoil. They look very similar to mine but after shooting dozens of groups in my rifle they have been even more sporadic, and that is trying a number of powder, bullet, seating depth combinations, along with factory ammo.

Again, the manuals and online ballistic chats are only guides. Dont forget, the lawyers of these companies will encourage hem to be as "safe" as possible.... but on the other hand, dont blow your rifle and your face up.

Oh yeah... I broke my barrel in. It didn't foul as much, but it didn't shoot any better.

Regards,

-MR

Last edited by MontanaRifleman; 05-24-2009 at 03:10 AM.
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