This is a slant on NYLES idea. I was going to post this in the "low ES" thread in the BBB forum but I didn't want to hijack that thread.
I don't mind investing time/money to reload "better" quality ammo, but I don't want to waste time doing/buying something I won't see a difference with.
This is in no way meant to flame or put down ANYONE, but I read lots on this board (and a few others) and there are some people who will do EVERYTHING (trim, weigh, seperate, sort, form, shape...) and they shoot awsome groups. Then there are others who dump powder, seat a bullet and shoot; they also have great groups. So which is correct.
I have a friend who is fond of saying, "don't get off in Chicago." Meaning if you're riding the train to New York, don't get off in Chicago; don't do something half way. With reloading I want to go all the way to New York, but when I get there I don't want to waste time sitting on the train.
When I got my 22-250 bored to AI my gunsmith gave me a load to use, said it didn't matter what brass, load it to this AOL and shoot it...don't worry about seating deapth. He also said in "HIS" tests with primers shows no real difference between standard and BR primers.
I guess what I'm admitting is that I'm confused on what is "necessary" for accurate reloading.
Please wade in with your thoughts on this subject and what you do when reloading. I realize every gun is a rule unto itself but, if you could qualify some of the steps/things you do it might be benificial (i.e. neck turning reduces groups and average of .XXX but ONLY in tight necked guns...reloading during the full moon increases group size 10" at 1000 yards...etc) I have heard about trimming/matching the ogive on bullets but I have a feeling at the level I am at right now I probably wouldn't see any benifit from doing that, maybe I would, how much difference does it make.
Thanks for your imputs, I'm sure I will learn LOTS.
Genises 27-3: Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me some venison...
Unfortuneately there's no rhyme or reason to it. Some guns shoot most loads well and some loads shoot well in most guns. However, they tend to be the exception and not the rule (omitting several thousand dollar custom guns, but sometimes they're thinicky too). The reason we end up playing with all the variables is to get a certain bullet to shoot well in our rifles, or trying to squeeze every ounce of accuracy out of our rifles. Sometimes some of us take it too far, getting a load that was shooting .5 MOA to shoot .45 MOA after neck turning, volume sorting, primer pocket uniforming etc. is a pretty low return on your efforts. However that's not to say that doing any combination of those things might help you make a 1 minute load into a half minute load. Sometimes you just gotta give it a whirl and see if it's worth continuing. It's all trial and error in my opinion.
You are probably not going to get an answer on this one, cuz some, as you said, believe that you MUST do everything to any case, no matter what the gun, or the target.
I think it is really a matter of scale. If you have an average, off the rack rifle, that is capable of 3/4" to 1" groups, there is no need to separate cases into lots of 0.1 grain weight. Nor is there any reason to weigh powder charges to 0.05 grains, either.
And to targets, if you have a .223 class rifle, and are shooting PD's at 300-400 yds in South Dakota, there is no need to weigh the charges and cases, and do the flash holes, and all the rest of the benchrest stuff, cuz
with the winds there, you will be lucky to be within inches, and the 0.05" that you might have gained is lost in the conditions.
But a fair number of shooters consider case prep as part of the shooting experence, and for them it is "fun".
If case prep is not "fun" for you... then balance to efforts and the gains, put it in perspective, and decide for yourself.
Spring has sprung, da' creek has riz, I wonder where dem kitties is? Here, kitty kitty kitty.