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Lee collet neck die

 
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  #8  
Old 07-10-2011, 10:31 PM
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Re: Lee collet neck die

The "middle part" IS the mandrel/decapper rod. It is NOT supposed to be rigid but the slack is very small, it allows the decapper pin to find the flash hole without breaking anything.

That excellant die has a learning curve but it's worth the effort. Read and FOLLOW the instructions, at least until you have enough experience to get a feel for using it.
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  #9  
Old 07-10-2011, 10:40 PM
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Re: Lee collet neck die

the collet wasn't stuck it was wide open, it just would accept brass from my oversized chamber plus thick Lapua brass... It was fine with Rem, well not all away, it would scratch them badly.
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  #10  
Old 07-11-2011, 05:43 AM
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Re: Lee collet neck die

I know guys that swear by this dye. I tried one years ago and struggled with consistency. I believe, according to the instructions, that it requires that you apply the exact same pressure on the press handle each time you size a case. When I applied enough pressure to hold the bullet securely, it produced marks on the brass. I have heard of people using a gauge on the press handle to apply consistent pressure. I certainly could have been lousy technique on my part, but I went back to my Redding dye and never looked back.
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  #11  
Old 07-11-2011, 07:09 AM
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Re: Lee collet neck die

The collet moves. That moving part seems to overwelm some people but those who take the time to learn to use it tend to love it.
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  #12  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:15 PM
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Re: Lee collet neck die

I beleive your initial question has been answered.

Search these forums for "collet" and you'll find lots of tips and suggestions.

Some love 'em. Some hate 'em.

I too had problems like Jinx and others until I took time to figure them out.

They are proven performers once you've got them properly set up.

-- richard
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  #13  
Old 07-11-2011, 07:22 PM
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Re: Lee collet neck die

like said before the die really works great if you will give your self time to learn it.in my rock chucker press I have put an index mark on two moveing parts of the press to help me out, ( with the same pressure each time )even takeing the die apart and cleaning the rouch edges and polishing it then a little grease it will then work better for you.

like one said before I think Jinx said it put marks on Lapua brass.I too have had this to happen.but after opening up the collets of the die ( by springing the fingers out a little ) it has yet happened again.

I have had 15 years wth these dies and found out all kinds of tricks to do to them.the two best are the ones I just told.other than polishing a little off the mandrel to get a tighter neck.and that it just takes time with the die to really get the feel of what the die is doing.trust me you can feel the die moveing the neck back to specs.you can even feel it better when you deprim the brass first.I can move my necks back to specs with just one to two fingers on all my brass.when I resize 223 brass it just take a nudge with one finger to make the collet work.

yeah one more trick for ya.annealing in some kind of time order with your brass helps alot.
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  #14  
Old 07-11-2011, 09:18 PM
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Re: Lee collet neck die

Quote:
Originally Posted by teampete View Post
Hey all, I purchased a lee collet neck die for my 300 win mag. I have a question about it. I notice the middle of the die seems to be free floating. I think its called the mandrel? But anyways I wasnt sure if that was supposed to be floating like that. it can not move too much to one side but it definitely is floating and I wanted to make sure that was ok?
Though the Lee Collet Die directions say to not adjust your press so that it cams over, if you do it correctly, it won't hurt a thing and you will have consistent neck tension since you run the press full stroke every time and won't have to rely on your calibrated arm to be sure you are exerting the same amount of force. Have a look at this:


John
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