Primer pockets and such....
"The most outrageous of which is flash-hole uniforming. Again, someone please explain to me how sticking a hand power reamer in a case and giving it a twist is making anything uniform? Have you been honest with yourself and really tested this enough to prove that it helps? It kills me to hear folks rattle on about the care and loading they give there cases, while listening I turn the cases over and see the primer pockets are off center."
The only benifit I can see is when you slip that little center drill into a case and find a chunk of brass about the size of a match head being cut out of the way possibly making the primer flash a bit more uniform. As far as off centered holes, yep seen them too. Those are my special reserve brass for when I am hog hunting in thick cover or hunting in the tall grassy areas at my friends place, and do not intend to ever find that case again.
Yes I can honestly say that I have tried this and proved that it definately makes a difference in several of my rifles as well as a dozen or so more friends. I got into doing some of this very stuff years ago when I did some custom loads for hunting bud's. I had several which I could not make their gun shoot anything it seemed. However I am the type that just really hates to take no for an answer. So, I started at the bottom and worked up. First I cleaned and squared the primer pockets. This helped some but didn't get me where I thought I needed to be. So I moved on to some of the flash holes. Immediately this helped in two rifles, groups shrank from 1.75" to under 1". This is out of factory rifles. The brass was full length resized and had a maximum of 6 loads before going into my stash. This way I could always be sure that I was using good brass for their loads. I do have to add that the flash hole touch up has consistantly worked better with full density, or slightly compressed loads, more often than not.
As for the neck trimming, well I have had to do that also, but only on two rifles. My Winchester 243, and my Ruger 22-250. Each will get tight on closing the bolt after three firings. Not that I am complaining, but it is just something that I have found to have to be done. Both are straight factory and will group in around .375 at 100 yds. My Factory Remington BDL in 25/06, it took a shine to the primer pockets being squared and flash holes being deburred. It shrank the groups for it from around 1.25" to under .5 at 100 yds. IT will also hold this group out to close to 300 if I am doing my part. This has been verified my more than just me shooting it.
All of the above was done using the same loads in the before trimmed cases as after. The only difference was the extra case prep. I will add that I have also found that in some factory rifles, stopping your full lenght resize about .075" or so from hitting the shoulder will also help center the case in the chamber and aid in groups. This has just been my experiences through about 25+ years of serious loading. I am not claiming to be any sort of an expert, but I have tried and seen improvemnts made by some of these techniques mentiond. However, every firearm is just like every women, your have to learn for yourself what it takes to make them happy and then decide if it's worth the price of keeping them around.
Mike / Tx
"Heck why would I lie, most folks don't believe the truth when I tell them"