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Reloading Techniques For Reloading


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I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

 
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  #43  
Old 06-12-2013, 10:04 AM
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Re: I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

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Originally Posted by Tall View Post
That was one of the first things I checked was my case length. The 7mm remington Mag case Max length is 2.5" I trimed everything back to 2.490" according to the speer manual. As soon as I annealed all the brass casings that wouldnt fit, I was able to full length size them and now they all fit perfect. I think the brass was just too hard to resize. Now I see how important it is to anneal brass. To maintain acurasy I plan to check the head space after a brass is fired and then reduce the brass head space by .001". I will also use Larrywillis.com belted magnum collet resizing die.Cost me $106.00 might as well put it to good use.
just a further thought; your using a belted magnum case, and how does it headspace? Most belted mags headspace off the belt and not the shoulder unless they were built that way. If you have a factory chamber, you should probably be headspacing off the belt.

Speaking of case hardness, I have about a hundred Federal .300 Win mag cases that are so hard that they ring like a bell. I tried running one of them thru a .270 mag die for the hell of it, and it wouldn't do anything with them! Looks like it would take a major annealing to make .270 mag cases out of the .300 mag brass.

As for the Innovative Tech die, if you don't need it now, you will in the future. Nice thing about themis that if you have one for a .300 H&H case, it will work all all cases that are from that family. So you can use it on a .338 mag or a .257 mag.
gary
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  #44  
Old 06-17-2013, 07:00 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
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Re: I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

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Originally Posted by Trickymissfit View Post
just a further thought; your using a belted magnum case, and how does it headspace? Most belted mags headspace off the belt and not the shoulder unless they were built that way. If you have a factory chamber, you should probably be headspacing off the belt.

gary
Gary, My mind is going to fry if I try taking on more concepts and theories on reloading. I am learning there are a dozen or more opinions and techniques on reloading, annealing, head spacing, bullet seating, resizing neck only vs full resizing. My mind is about to pop! I am learning allot from other re loaders and
this forum. I have learned you have to master one problem before you change an entire system of doing things.
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  #45  
Old 06-17-2013, 08:31 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Re: I agree with wood

If you have the correct OAL (trim to length) and it is still tight closing the bolt you probably need to turn your die down another 1/4 turn.
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  #46  
Old 10-23-2013, 02:05 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Re: I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

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Originally Posted by Tall View Post
I have a few reloading questions if somebody has some answers or theory.

#4 is there anything I can do to keep my brass shinning and looking nice, such as applying wax or a product and polish it?
You probably don't want to go thru all of this, but it works very well. Yes, I do have a lot of time to kill.

I spin my brass & polish it the first time with #0000 steel wool, blow off the case well & load. After firing, I de-cap primers & soak the fired cases in a citric acid solution overnight (8-12 hours) I wipe all cases clean by hand, shake or blow the water out. I put them in my oven set to 150F for 30-60 minutes to insure they're dry. Then tumble them in corn cob media. For anyone concerned, citric acid is passive & will not damage brass in any way. I spent many hours researching this on the Internet. I know this is overkill & not a method most people would choose.
However, I'm never in a hurry though & have no need to process more than 40 rounds at a time. My loaded rounds look as good as anything you've ever seen. If it's not that important to you, then I wouldn't waste my time. The only abrasion on brass is the first & only time you use #0000 steel wool. Don't use anything coarser than #0000 or you will start removing brass. Do not use sandpaper or abrasives like the 3M ScotchBrite pads. They are much too abrasive.
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  #47  
Old 10-23-2013, 02:22 PM
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Re: I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

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Originally Posted by TracySes23 View Post
You probably don't want to go thru all of this, but it works very well. Yes, I do have a lot of time to kill.

I spin my brass & polish it the first time with #0000 steel wool, blow off the case well & load. After firing, I de-cap primers & soak the fired cases in a citric acid solution overnight (8-12 hours) I wipe all cases clean by hand, shake or blow the water out. I put them in my oven set to 150F for 30-60 minutes to insure they're dry. Then tumble them in corn cob media. For anyone concerned, citric acid is passive & will not damage brass in any way. I spent many hours researching this on the Internet. I know this is overkill & not a method most people would choose.
When you say Citric acid, are you referring to lemon juice or Orange juice?
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  #48  
Old 10-23-2013, 03:28 PM
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Re: I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

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Originally Posted by Tall View Post
When you say Citric acid, are you referring to lemon juice or Orange juice?
Neither, the citric acid in fruit juices is the same, but the concentration is weaker. I bought pure citric acid powder from Amazon. I think I paid approx. $20 for 5 lbs. a year ago.
It's enough to last me till I die, but I'm 72 years old.

It's exactly the same acid as in any fruit. What Amazon has is the pure stuff.
I actually tried generic Real Lemon juice to see how it works. I was shocked at how well it worked. Once mixed, it needs to be refrigerated or it will begin to spoil. In powder form it will not spoil.
You can actually make lemonade with this stuff, but it won't have any color
For me I discovered, 30 minutes is enough time to do most of what it needs to do.
However, I allowed it to set with brass in it for approx. 15-16 hours & discovered primer residue cleaned off much easier. I also noticed, carbon residue on the neck of my fired brass was also much easier to remove.
The carbon residue on the case neck was very slightly oily for some reason. Perhaps using a paper towel wasn't completely cleaning of the Imperial sizing die wax.
Tarnish is oxidized brass & all the citric acid does is to return the tarnish back to it's original state. Then it becomes passive & does nothing else. I've considered putting a little dish soap in the solution, to see if that makes it more effective on the carbon on the case necks.
If you buy this stuff in small quantities, it becomes a bit expensive.
If you want to try it out first, do like I did.... Buy some Real Lemon concentrate or generic concentrate. It made me more comfortable to make the purchase of this powder at Amazon.

The solution gets weaker with each use which in turn increases the time it takes to work. But the concentration isn't critical. I use 2-3 tablespoons per quart. I also heat it up in a microwave after removing it from the refrigerator. A warm solution works a little faster than a cold solution. I've never made a solution so strong as to where it didn't still work well.
Do some research on the Internet, it will allow you to use it with complete confidence it will not damage your brass. It'll clean cooper also, but if you have tarnished bullets with exposed lead tips, it will turn the lead black. This doesn't seem to affect performance of the bullet.
This stuff cleans calcium deposits out of coffee pots also. It has a lot of uses. If you're married, your wife may start using it faster than you do.
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  #49  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:11 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Re: I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

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Originally Posted by Tall View Post



I believe the problem is in the head of the brass. Not sure how to re size it.
Just read through the thread. I'm no expert, but why is everyone saying that this is head seperation? All of the brand NEW brass I have ever bought for my 7mm has had this shinny ring just above the head. I know that originaly I thought the same thing. Then I started inspecting my brand new brass and it had the same shinny ring, right out of the bag. I know that you are taught when learning to reload, that this is an indication of head seperation. But on my 7mm and my friends 7mm's that I load for, all of them have the same ring on all of our brass new and old. Is this just a 7mm thing? Has anyone else noticed this?
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