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how to bump shoulder back

 
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Old 03-26-2008, 01:52 PM
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how to bump shoulder back

I have been loading for my 270 just neck siezing with a lee neck die; after 7 reloads case seems tight i think i need to bump the shoulder back how do you do that? Do i need a special die or can i just use my lee die? how do i do this? thanks for your help guys!
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:25 PM
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get new brass
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:45 PM
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First you probably need to anneal the necks at this point in time being as they have been fired quite a few times. Then you will need either a full length die or a body die.

To set the shoulder back take the case that is the hardest to close the bolt on and check to make sure it doesn't need to be trimmed real bad. Lube it up. Size the neck. Delube it and try it in the chamber. If the bolt is still stiff then put the body die in the press and run it down until you have maybe a quarter inch gap or less between the bottom of the die and the shell holder. Relube the case and run it into the body die which probably accomplished absolutely nothing but wipe it off and try it in the chamber. If it is still hard to chamber then screw the die down a turn and lube the case and run it into the die. Wipe it off and try it in the camber. Run the die down about a half a turn and do it all over again. Run the die down about a quarter of a turn and do it all again. Keep this up until the die just barely moves the shoulder back and the case is easy to chamber. Lock the die ring on the die so it is set forever and doomsday. Run all of your cases through. Check them all for length and trim if needed.

Now then if you don't know how to anneal cases then start a new thread because it is a whole world unto itself.
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Old 03-26-2008, 04:24 PM
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Buffalobobs method is a very good way to do it it IF you cannot measure where it is at.

However if you want to measure and keep track you have a couple options.

You can use either the Hornady Lock N Load headspace tool at Sinclair International - Specializing in products designed for precision rifle ammunition reloading and shooting part # HK-66 or a custom made bump guage.

Either allow you to measure the fired headspacing and the exact spacing needed to bump back the shoulder .001-.002.

A bump guage is about $20 from a smith and is nothing more than a trued barrel stub that is reamed with a reamer and sits down over the case and measured with calipers.

the hornady tool has a 5 piece bushing set that covers almost all cases.

BH
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:14 PM
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It is always a good idea to know where you are starting from. Using the Stoney Point headspace gauge (now being sold by Hornady), I first measure the shoulders on a few new cases. Then I measure the shoulders on a few once fired cases. This will give you an idea as to how much headspace you have with new brass. Not precise, but ballpark.

The measurement of the once fired cases is "usually" a good reference for where the shoulder should be on reloaded cases. I typically adjust my die so that the shoulder is about .001" shorter than this measurement. IMO, a slight resizing of the case after each firing is better than neck sizing until the bolt is hard to close and then FL sizing to minimum dimensions again.

Working without some kind of measuring device makes everything nothing more than guesswork.
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Old 03-27-2008, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varmint Hunter View Post
It is always a good idea to know where you are starting from. Using the Stoney Point headspace gauge (now being sold by Hornady), I first measure the shoulders on a few new cases. Then I measure the shoulders on a few once fired cases. This will give you an idea as to how much headspace you have with new brass. Not precise, but ballpark.

The measurement of the once fired cases is "usually" a good reference for where the shoulder should be on reloaded cases. I typically adjust my die so that the shoulder is about .001" shorter than this measurement. IMO, a slight resizing of the case after each firing is better than neck sizing until the bolt is hard to close and then FL sizing to minimum dimensions again.

Working without some kind of measuring device makes everything nothing more than guesswork.
Good info and well said.
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