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How to bump the shoulder???

 
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  #8  
Old 11-04-2007, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatShooter View Post
I have a set of shell holders that are shortened by lapping on a plate with #800 carbide paper. Each one was made for a specific rifle, and specific die, to exactly match the chamber.
Thanks for describing your method. I have heard other methods described that gave what I would describe as less than desirable results, and too many tales of attempts at extreme camming over, trying to achieve the impossible.

Do you find that it is desirable to use one brand of shellholder over another? Redding advertises their shellholders as being hardened. In your experience, are they the only ones, or are other brands hardened ? I can see the virtue in modifying an unhardened piece, both in ease of processing and in the results.
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  #9  
Old 11-04-2007, 01:52 PM
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Double tap :(
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Last edited by CatShooter; 11-04-2007 at 01:57 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-04-2007, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winchester 69 View Post
Thanks for describing your method. I have heard other methods described that gave what I would describe as less than desirable results, and too many tales of attempts at extreme camming over, trying to achieve the impossible.

Do you find that it is desirable to use one brand of shellholder over another? Redding advertises their shellholders as being hardened. In your experience, are they the only ones, or are other brands hardened ? I can see the virtue in modifying an unhardened piece, both in ease of processing and in the results.
"Extreme camming over" cannot work - it is silly - it would require that you can compress the steel in the die body, which you cannot.
All you do when you "over cam" is to stress and stretch the frame of the press.

I use RCBS shell holders (though I am not an RCBS fan)... because when I was a dealer, I wound up with a million of them. They are Okie dokie - Redding shell holders are very good, and the Bonanza shell holders (before they were bought up by Forster) are great!

All of the above shell holders are hardened. I don't know about LEE (yuck!).

You take a piece of #800 Silly cone carbide "Wet n dry" paper, and put it on a plate of glass - oil it, and put the shell holder on it and start going in a figure "8" on the paper. Rotate the shell holder in your fingers by 90 every minute, so you won't lap a slope in the shell holder.

You can do it by trial and error - you will take down about 1 thou a minute (at least I did). Lap down the shell holder a little, wipe off the black stuff, and try a case in the die, then the rifle... do this every minute or two until the bolt closes on the case the way you like.

Make sure to mark the shell holder with a red "sharpie" pen or something... or put it in a zip lock bag so it doesn't get mixed in with the other shell holders.

23 thou was the most I have ever had to do - the rest were 6 to 12 thou.

.
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  #11  
Old 11-05-2007, 10:14 AM
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If you are getting into reloading and enjoy it please do yourself a favor and get the stoney point (now hornady I guess) headspace bushing kit. You don't need the redding shellholders at all....save your money and put it towards the stoney point kit. (I have them and pretty much use them only because I have confidence they hold a tight tolerance and might help keep runnout down.....not for flexibility of headspacing). If you want to be able to play with headspacing and not move the lock ring sinclair offers a shim kit that is really handy called "skips shims" and you can shim from .002" to .020" easily.

I always get a kick when people say that just bumping the shoulder is "partial sizing" when it really just plain is correct sizing as you are talking about the final .010-.020" of case travel into the die.....I guess if oversizing your brass is called "full length sizing" then no one should ever do that.
One last trick in measuring the case for headspace with the bushing kit...always knock the primer out first as you can get .001-.002" protrusion after firing..sometimes slightly more on non belted cases.

Last edited by kraky; 11-05-2007 at 10:18 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-05-2007, 12:33 PM
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Catshooter

Thank you very much for expanding on your technique.
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2007, 02:11 PM
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Bumping and testing.

It would be fantastic if there were a video or even a very well illustrated short document describing/showing the 2 or 3 different methods of bumping as have been described in the threads. I have read and tried some info via a long time reloader and now bullet maker with his given procedures. Bump til you get your bolt close feel like cutting through butter.. eg; some resistance. Check cases for pressure signs etc.. Took a while and some correspondence and reading etc.. But for those never having done it, or having some comprehension difficulty, nothing beets OJT via a good video or well illustrated document.. Reloading for less than MOA accurracy is fun when you can get even off the shelf rifles to MOA, let alone custom made rigs. The task is not to be taken lightly and comprehension of what one is doing is extremely important.
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  #14  
Old 11-18-2007, 11:38 PM
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Redding makes a body die exactly for this purpose. Body dies are designed to full length size the case body and bump the shoulder position for proper chambering without disturbing the case neck. They are made without internal parts and intended for use only to resize cases which have become increasingly difficult to chamber after repeated firing and neck sizing. Midway sells them for about $25.00. They work very well
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