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Reloading Techniques For Reloading


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full length resizing

 
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  #22  
Old 02-09-2014, 09:05 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NC, oceanfront
Posts: 3,167
Re: full length resizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
I use a Hornady headspace gage on the shoulder datum to gage headspace. Much easier than chambering rounds.
Easier, but not accurate. Well, unless Hornady chambered your barrel and had fireformed your brass for you.
When you say "on the shoulder datum", I hope you realize there is no shoulder datum other than what you establish locally. Maybe that's what you meant while using a Hornady gage.
You don't need Sierra manuals for Sierra bullets, and Hornady manuals for Hornady bullets.
I haven't had/used a reloading manual in 35yrs(since reloading class in HS).

Also, you cannot predict bump. It is a trial & error determination, that is independent of ram, or shellholder, or shims here or there.
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  #23  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:04 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: S.E. Michigan
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Re: full length resizing

Been working just fine for me, for years. I use a case from the particular chamber to gage the datun dimension wihich remains constant because the bore of the gage is unchanging so it locates in the same spot every time and the die inetrior dimensions don't change either. All fired cases are returned to the corresponding box and that box is marked as to the firearm used in. That way, I have the cases segregated already, after the initial firing.

My credo is, I load my way and my reloads don't blow up in my face (or out the vent holes in the receiver).

My regimen seems to work just fine, I'm the designated reloader for our entire group and thats a whole bunch of diverse calibers across a bunch of rifles. Everything from 223 to 338 and handgun loads too.

I'm preferential to straight walled cases in handgun loads. Much easier to deal with and less intensive but harder to trim, when needed infrequently.

There are a myraid of ways to achieve your desired result and so long as you achieve that without incident, all is good.
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  #24  
Old 02-14-2014, 01:30 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 43
Re: full length resizing

I neck size until the bolt wont close, then only enough bump so that it will.
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  #25  
Old 02-15-2014, 04:27 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 399
Re: full length resizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian Bushman View Post
If this point is past -.002" past the required headspace to fit your case back into the rifle you are reloading for, you have already overworked the brass. If the die is touching the shell holder ,with the slop removed, when sizing a case how much farther can you push the case into the die?




This is proper procedure for exact fit and longest case life.
To answer your question correctly, the case WILL NOT fully enter the die UNTIL ALL SLACK IS REMOVED FROM THE LINKAGES IN RCBS PRESSES WITH RCBS DIES. CAMMING OVER is necessary to get the die touching the shellholder when a CASE is installed in the die.
Other die manufacturers have different set up procedures, so do different press manufacturers, the easiest method to avoid trouble is to follow the manufacturers instructions. If you do this, you will be able to tweak your dies to get the best headspace for YOUR RIFLE.
If you want precise headspacing I recommend buying a RCBS Precision Mic for your caliber in question and set your dies up with measured ACCURACY, guessing is just that in most instances.

Cheers.
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  #26  
Old 02-15-2014, 11:49 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 770
Re: full length resizing

Quote:
the case WILL NOT fully enter the die UNTIL ALL SLACK IS REMOVED FROM THE LINKAGES IN RCBS PRESSES WITH RCBS DIES.
Im not arguing this. This is true for every press with any die.
Im saying creating more resistance as the press cams over by screwing the die down more, is not necessarily pushing the case further into the die.

Quote:
CAMMING OVER is necessary to get the die touching the shellholder when a CASE is installed in the die.
This is not true and it is beside the point i was trying to make.
Some cases, when being sized in a particular die, do not need the die to contact the shell holder in order to have the headspace bumped back enough to properly chamber in the rifle they are being sized for.

If you set up your die by contacting it to the shell holder, there is a good chance you could be overworking the case.

The "CAM" is the most upward part of the stroke of your press's arbor.
When you reach this point the press handle is moving the greatest distance relative to the distance traveled by the arbor. You always want to run through this point on any press operation because it assures your arbor is reaching its highest point with the greatest amount of force. This is regardless of the amount play you have in your arbor or its alignment to the die. If the seat is contacting the bottom of the die at this point and you are feeling resistance in the handle, chances are the case is as far into the die as it will be able to go.

In my opinion screwing the die down any further is only stressing the components of your press. You would benefit more from running the case through the die a second time or even removing material from the base of the die or the top of the shell holder, than you would by screwing the die down any further.
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  #27  
Old 03-10-2014, 02:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Grande Prairie Alberta Canada
Posts: 8
Re: full length resizing

Thanks guys I've been reloading for 20 years now and had 50 rounds in my 30-06 chamber hard after they were reloaded as if I only neck sized them not sure what happened there but it confused me because it has never happened to me before, I reload for 30-06,308, 223, 45-70, 357 mag and never encounter that before, I haven't shot those rounds out of my 30-06 yet will it be safe? most likely they will just get stuck in the chamber right.
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  #28  
Old 03-10-2014, 03:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 770
Re: full length resizing

In my experience you have to have a really tight fit and a pretty hot round to stick one in there. Ive neck sized rounds until they were downright difficult to get into the gun. They shot just fine with no pressure signs and extraction wasnt horrible but i had to tug on the bolt a bit to get it out. Every now and again i would have to tap on the handle a bit to get one out.

I dont recommend loading like this and it was an accident when it happen to me, but other than a little wear on the rifle its harmless.

Now when i get a batch thats hard to chamber i run the loaded shell through a body die and im back in business.
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