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Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

 
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  #15  
Old 01-18-2011, 02:55 PM
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Re: Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reloader222 View Post
I had similar problems in my .222 Rem. Thought case annealing had solve the problem, but then it had pop up again - even with lower charges. After firing I inserted a .224 decapping rod and there it was - there was a donut in the necks of all those cases which had shown execive pressure (just where the shoulder of the case start). The rod had easily inserter full lenght into all other cases which had no signs of high pressure. The conclusion is that when I insert the bullet in insert past the donut and when fired it causes a lot of pressure because the case neck cannot expand as much as it should.
there you go! I imagine that when you removed the doughnot, your groups tightened up slightly as well. Often the ring will slightly deform the bullet on seating.
gary
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  #16  
Old 02-19-2012, 09:15 AM
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Re: Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

Have the same with a old Winshester 30-06,primers are half out after shooting good reloaded brass.

Have allways fully sized the brass, shells might not be tight in the chamber either.
Maybe i should be neck sizing only
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2012, 05:24 PM
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Re: Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

"That's funny, cause I could swear that I've read, on this site multiple times, the old ball powders aren't all that stable. Things like temp sensitive, etc."

I'm sure you did.

Questions: What constitues "old"? What constitues "temp sensitive"? And how much do the changes matter?

Old matters but I've used 50 year old WWII surplus ball and tubular powders (it's what Hodgedon got started in the business on) and it all worked fine, as well as some very "old" surplus ammo, so powders of all types must be fairly "stable" for longer than most of us will care.

ALL chemicals are "temp senstitive" to some degree, it's the nature of chemistry. But consider what you already know; the US military uses ball powder ammo in temps ranging from 110F+ in world deserts to -60 F in high altitude aircraft so at what temp does powder become sensitive enough to become dangerous to any of us?

Moral: Most of what you read about old or temp sensitive powders is over stated B.S. so maybe you need to listen to a better set of web experts?
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2012, 12:34 AM
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Re: Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

Question: How many rounds have gone through the barrel since the last time it had copper cleaned out? The reason I asked is that I had problems with factory rounds flatning out primers and blowing three right out of the case. I went back to the manufacturer. They had me return the rounds that were left and tested the pressure. It was fine and the rounds were fine. They had me use a strong copper cleaner and try again. No problem. So, there can be copper build up that is not easily removed that can cause a problem. If you have been regularly removing copper please let us know so we don't have that as a possible variable.
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2012, 12:53 AM
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Re: Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

Sounds like Savage primer problem with its dished boltfaced and unadjusted firing pin.



What you need is to take bolt apart and adjust firing pin, the dished boltface you would have to find gunsmith to true it, or just buy new boltface and hope its not dished.

Also for hot loads use magnum primers or BR primers from CCI.
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2012, 08:49 AM
gdc gdc is offline
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Re: Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

if you will check graybeards site for the primer chart, he has the primer demensions for each on it. BR-__ have the largest outside diameter of all of them. That is the primer I use in all my reloading, and for that reason. Been an enlightening subject/answers. Thanks all. jc
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  #21  
Old 02-22-2012, 10:28 AM
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Re: Flatning Primers and Blowing out Primers

The best load out of my 22-250 is 33.3 gr. of Varget, with a Speer #1035, over a CCI BR2 primer.

Headspace issues sound like the most viable option right now. Easy way to check it also, without spending any extra money. Take your full length sizing die and insert a 1/8" (or close) shim on the die body; so when you screw it down, you have the die lock ring, then the shim, then the press. This 1/8" shim will essentially make you neck size only, but you have to size rounds that have been fired in that gun's chamber and not resized yet (fireformed). Load and shoot those rounds, and let us know how you made out.

Good luck!
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