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Reloading Techniques For Reloading



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Old 04-19-2005, 05:17 AM
Silver Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 177

Gday all,
Im gonna go and buy myself some factory .25-06,
And what I wanna do is Fire-Form it to .25-06 AI,
I have a case trimmer and I am wondering if I need anything else?
Is there any problems with Fire-Forming Nickel plated brass or normal brass?

Thanks in advance

skip [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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Old 04-19-2005, 07:54 AM
Gold Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Northamptonshire England
Posts: 676
Re: Fire-Forming?

Hey Skip,
My opinion on this is that nickel is not a particularly elastic material and may cause you some problems.
I dont know enough about the subject so maybe someone with more knowledge could expand on this question.
Personally i have always given nickel plated brass a wide birth. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

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Old 04-19-2005, 07:57 AM
Silver Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 250
Re: Fire-Forming?

Skip ,
Haven't used Nickel plated brass myself but believe from what I have read that it is hard on dies and is inclined to flake off around the neck after a while .
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Old 04-19-2005, 10:20 AM
Writers Guild
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,459
Re: Fire-Forming?

Go with the reg brass. Why pay more for something that may cause problems? Is the chamber cut as a true AI? This means that a standard case will be a slight crush fit when chambered. This keeps the case nice and tight against the bolt when you fireform. If not, you will have very short case life due to separation in a firing or two.

Get a piece of brass and throw it in the chamber, you should just feel a resistance when you close the bolt. If not, the safest way is to form a false shoulder before firing.

Simplest way for this is to get 270 brass, run into your 25.06 die so that you size most of the neck. Adjust die so that you can close bolt but there is firm resistance. Upon fireforming, you will have a perfectly fitted brass.

Other way is to neck up the 25-06 brass, then back down again to form that second shoulder. With the AI profile, I doubt you will mistake which brass you are using no matter what the headstamp says.

I fireform using cream of wheat, COW (corn meal works fine too). Use the boil stuff, no instant. Any primer can be used. Drop in 14 to 17gr of HP38/Win 231 (other shotgun powders can also be used but I don't know the weights). Start low and work up.

Fill to base of neck with COW and stuff in a piece of paper towel to hold it all together. Fire. You will have a shoulder that is formed but not quite sharp. Increase charge a bit and you will see the shoulder sharpen. You will need the first full pressure smokeless firing to fully form the case.

Every 5 or so shots, check the chamber to make sure there are not bits of COW in there. This will dent your case. A cosmetic thing mostly. I also run a brush just to remove any fouling. This way I can form 50 brass in a few minutes.

Enjoy a great wildcat...

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Old 04-19-2005, 01:40 PM
LB LB is offline
Silver Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 423
Re: Fire-Forming?

In my opinion, nickle brass is a mistake, for this application. I own a 25'06 Ackley, and I use 270 Win PMC brass. Turning necks is not possible, even chamfering the necks results in chipping, if not now, later. I wouldn't ever use nickle, unless I lived in coastal Alaska, and had no intention of reusing the cases. However, nickle is great for handguns.

The method I used to fireform was with corn meal. I don't remember what powder, or how much, but the main thing is to decide what you use to plug the neck. I have tried bar soap, and didn't like it. I wound up using little 1" squares of newsprint, rolled into a ball and carefully stuffed into the neck.

Jerry is right about checking the action every so often for clutter. You need to blow it out with compressed air, or if you don't have a compressor, I think a can of air, like we use for computer parts would be okay?

I close the garage doors and shoot into a baffle box, but that corn meal eventually blew the back out, which was made of half inch particle board. I think it is best to shoot upward, and be careful when extracting the blown out case because some media may still be inside, and get thrown around inside the action if you do things horizontal.

If at all possible, the best way I have found, to fireform in one simple step, is to use a loaner gun with a junk barrel, the chamber of which is cut using the same reamer as is your barrel. Using this method, at the range, with surplus bullets and a standard, but relatively mild load, I was able to completely fireform 200 cases in little more than an hour.

By far the easiest fireforming, if you have the means, and a cooperative local gunsmith.

Good hunting. LB

edit: PS I have never had to use a case trimmer after fireforming to an Ackley. I check, routinely, but the necks never need trimming.
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Old 04-20-2005, 09:50 PM
Silver Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 177
Re: Fire-Forming?

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]Ummmmmmmm I just thought I could just shoot the factory ammo in my rifle and it would be fire-formed because of the different shape chamber, thats what I was told but now I am unshore and am gonna have to ask the bloke who sold me the rifle!


skip [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:33 PM
Silver Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 398
Re: Fire-Forming?

I don't see why you can't do just as you wish and shoot the factory ammo in your rifle. If it is a true ACKLEY IMPROVED chamber you most certainly can.
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