Fire Formed Brass Prep? Sticky Bolt?

[Michigan Chris]

Regards, Somewhat new to reloading and working out the bugs a bit. Just returned from the range and have twice fired Nosler 7mm RSAUM Brass. With the first firing I did not have any problem with a sticky bolt, either during the unload of a fired case or when trying to prep. the brass for the second reload. After the second firing, I have several HOT cases that fit into the chamber with no problem, but when I attempt to close the Bolt I am experiencing a very sticky bolt, quite a bit of pressure is needed to lock the bolt? I realize this is fire formed but MY QUESTION IS, " 1.how much of a "sticky bolt is acceptable?

2. How much bolt resistance do I want from fire formed Brass compared to new brass?

3. I am using a redding full length Bushing re-sizer, and have attempted to slightly turn the die down in very very small increments to size the brass but am still getting some resistance, and I am almost bottomed out? But the Brass is easier to load and close the bolt but not as easy as unfired or once fired brass. "Back to my question" how much of a sticky bolt is acceptable/do I want?

The brass that is causing this is at the upper end of my MAX loads but is shooting the best?

Thank you, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards, Chris.

[Johnboy]

if your brass is the right length for the chamber then you are haveing a headspace issue.you still need to push the shoulder back a little but not much.it only takes .002 to bump the shoulder back.

I guess you haven't bought a headspace tool yet.well don't sweet it.you are already on the right track with setting up your die.you just need to keep turning the die in till you bump the shoulder enough to just bump it.this will allow you to close the bolt on a sized case with no trouble.

if you can take the fireing pin out of your bolt this will help out alot.by doing this you will have a better feel when closeing the bolt a a sized case.for me I like to see the bolt some what close on its on when checking a sized case for the proper shoulder bump.( headspace ) or to just add enough help to the bolt to close on the sized case.

[Autorotate]

Measure the diameter of your cases just north of the extractor groove in the web area of the case and compare the dimensions at this area with:

1. Your virgin brass
2. Your once fired "normal" velocity loads
3. Your once fired "hot" velocity loads
4. Your twice fired "hot" velocity loads
5. Your fired brass after resizing

You may be expanding the web area of the case, and your die isn't reducing the diameter sufficiently below the chamber diameter.

This will cause your feeding/extracting to feel sticky as well.

If this is the case, screwing your die further down against the shellholder will not fix your issue, but only serve to increase headspace, and potentially lead to case head separation.

You might look at "cooler" loads, and see if they are expanding the web diameter as much....

Good shooting.

[Trikstr]

Something else that helped me is to color the shoulder with black permanant marker. Remove the bushing from the die and screw it out and start resizing until you see the black show evidence of losing its shine. It makes it easier to tell when die is making contact with shoulder. Then you can screw die in in small increments until you feel slight resistance when closing bolt. Don't forget to keep the case lubed up.
Hopefully your having a shoulder bump issue and not a chamber body that is larger than the die can resize. Which I have seen happen.
The marker color comes off with rubbing alcohol.
I also use the marker to check bullet engagement into the rifling.

[Michigan Chris]

Update,

I called Redding and Forster as i am using a COAX press. The rep. from Forster advised that I could "over-cam" a bit, so I did. The result was very different as the Brass started to fit very well and the Bolt was closing with just a tad more resistance than un fired brass. Thus, I was able to back off the "over-cam" and and still getting great results with slightly more Bolt pressure. Another "new guy"error I believe I made was not applying enough case lube to the brass? The rep. from Forster asked what type of lube I was using, which is RCBS Case Lube-2. I started applying 2 to 3 times the amount and the Brass suddenly started sizing with one pull?

Please recommend a high quality case lube if possible/and or if the RCBS stuff is "less than desirable?"

Take note both Reps. from Redding and Forster were more than helpful and treated my incident with the greatest care and professionalism.

Thanks for all your help Boys, my best. Chris.

[Trikstr]

If I'm sizing alot of cases I use the Hornady One Shot. I don't trust the ad hype about it not contaminating powder or primer and degrease cases with acetone in a canning jar that I punched holes in opposite sides of lid.
If I'm sizing a few or forming cases the Imperial Sizing Die Wax works great.

[MuleHunter]

If you have a comparator for checking the length of your loaded rounds to the Ogive you can buy a cheap insert that will allow you to measure your headspace. You can buy them at Sinclair's or even Sportman's. I fireform a new case and measure the once fired case to see what my headspace is. Then i adjust the die to give me .0015" headspace clearance. Once the headspace is adjusted i run the case into my chamber to check fit. If it is still tight i check the case head in front of the exctractor grove. My unfired brass measures .5515" and max loads for me yield a .5535". I trim every fired case. Between these methods i have never had tight feeding problems.

I use Redding FL Bushing dies. For lube i use Hopps #9 and run a small bead down the side of the case and work it back and forth with my fingers until the whole case is lubed from the shoulder to the base. Using this method i only have to lube every 3rd case. I use Titanium Nitrided bushings.

Good luck.