Originally Posted by REDHEAD
Crimping seems puzzling to me. Had alot of bad experience with crimping .40 SW, blewup 3 pistols. Know I don,'t crimp at all. I mite suggest you color or smoke a reload and start with just a kiss. If your denting or crushing the bullet - is too much. My $ .02 worth. Go slow , good luck.
How the heck do you wait until the third pistol to change your reloading tactics?? I'd have crapped myself on the first one and asked for help straightening things out with a more experienced reloader. Of course you need to taper crimp for an auto loading pistol, otherwise you will have feeding issues.
Take your time and work up your loads. They say to do it for a reason. There is another issue with high pressure low capacity cases I don't doubt you encountered; you need to stay close to recommended oals. in data (especially in the 9 luger and 40 smith) as loading short will drastically up pressure because your initial case volume is lower. Loading long will cause feeding hangups in many pistols. Loading to short coupled with over-crimping you could easily be running close to twice intended pressures. Add to that the 40 smith having a partially unsupported chamber, and you've got a genuinely dangerous situation.
It addition primer changes in pistols can be rather dramatic to pressure changes; as an example the winchester small pistol mag. primer is much hotter than most other small pistol primers. A haphazard substitution of that primer can cause high pressures on its own. I've been there; popped a cyllinder full of primers on a 357; won't go there again, even with a mild load before the switch it was trouble. I would use the primer type specifiad in the loading data for most pistol loads unless I was sure that the substitute is very close to the other primer. In large pistol the differences are far less dramatic that small, but prudence is still best.