Not a book as such but the Sinclair catalog list a lot of good toys ( they update it 3 or4 times a year, gave the web addy a few post back) . The hard part is selecting what bits are needed, thats where the good advices comes in.
Oh things are going as well as they can. I am patiently waiting and holding back the urge to email you for updates on my rifle.
I had read I think on the 6mmbr website about a guy that remove his expander ball from his die. Is this a good idea, or do you deprime a different way? I am trying to make notes and improve on my reloading practices. My mentor was not nearly this AR about the finer details. He was when he wanted to have "match" grade ammo. But that was almost never. I do however think these little things will pay off in accuracy.
I deprime with the comp neck die which is not threaded for an expander ball. That is the beauty of bushing comp dies, if you are using the correct bushing there is no need for an expander ball. The expander ball was a method of correcting the gross "oversizing" accompanied by regular dies. By eliminating the oversizing, you can eliminate the expander ball. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
A couple more questions... Can Redding dies be used with an RCBS press?(maybe a stupid question) Also I was looking in Midway and I see the Redding Competition Bushing Neck Sizer 3-Die Set and it inclueds a bushing neck sizer, body die, and seater. I was wondering what is the difference between the neck sizer, plus the body die and what I am currently using the Full Length sizing die?
And all in all does this sound like the package that I need?
I shoot 1/4 inch groups at a 1000 yards. That is...till my second shot.
1 - They will work in RCBS press, they are all 7/8" threaded.
2 - The body die sizes the body and pushes the shoulder back only, not touching the neck... this is left for the bushing neck die, which is all it does.
3 - The full length die you currently have will also size the neck where the body die will not, that is the difference between them.
4 - The comp bushing neck die has a spring loaded guide sleeve to help control body alignment to the neck bushing before the neck enters the bushing to be sized. How it works is the sleeve drops lower than the die, being pushed out of the bottom of the die a little ways by the spring above it, the case is run up into it, in which it fits like a glove (chamber), the sleeve is fitted tightly to the die's body and when the case contacts the shoulder in the sleeve the sleeve slides up inside the die body under spring pressure to allow the neck to be sized by the neck bushing, while being held in axial alignment.
5 - The clearance between the sleeve and die body, also between the case and sleeve can allow the axial alignment to be off just a bit, but it's better than a standard neck die with NO guide sleeve. However, a FULL LENGTH sizing die that uses neck bushings holds the case body perfectly tight, as it is sizing it, so axial alignment is perfect to the bushing, reducing runout if it exists, or preventing it from occuring when the neck enters the bushing by keeping the neck from sizing more on the one side that is weaker/softer.
Again, I would have your FL die fitted for neck bushings by Jim Carstensen, or buy a FL bushing die and stay away from the bushing "neck" die (comp or otherwise) and body die combo. With anything less than medium to mild loads you will need to keep the shoulder pushed back .001-.002 on the cases and the body sized down at the pressure ring at least every other firing, so just make it routine to do it every firing and keep your ammo "consistant" by doing so, or every time you FL size cause they get too tight you throw the inconsistancy thing right back into your ammo... and that is the very thing we work to avoid.
Just my suggestion, but a neck only die will not correct runout and very often will get the runout problem started when you woould never have one with an FL die, tis why most BR shooters have went back to FL sizing, that and most don't shoot light loads either.
Some of you may want to purchase a test jig to measure your RO, and like Bountyhunter said, the RCBS works great and also does a few other things like case wall thickness etc, and is reasonably priced.
All this that I've said is easy to check for yourself if you have a concentricity jig, don't take my word for it as you can check it and see it for yourself so easy.
Now this part here is important: If your fired cases have ANY RUNOUT, you MUST use a FL die in order to correct it, a NECK die will not correct this and if you think about it for a minute you will understand why it will not, and why the FL die WILL. If the fired cases come out of your chamber with RO the NECK die will almost always make the runout WORSE. If you have a chamber that produces .003 RO upon firing and run those cases into the NECK die and find the RO increased to .005 - .008 TIR (total indicated runout), when you shoot them they are further off (obviously) than they were initially but will go back to about .003 TIR when fired... but the cycle will continue.
Even neck thickness and using a FL die with a good straight seating die is anyones best bet for consistant concentric ammo.