Gday, I was just wondering how you prepare your cases before reloading and if proper case preperation can leed to improved accuracy?
I usually chuck my cases in the my tumbler then I Neck size them which also deprimes them then I hit them with my Lee case trimmer (hand one) and then run my Redding Deburing tool on the inside and out, then I prime them ect ect.
Should I be turning them in one of those little lathe trimming things so it is cut and debured squarer with the case?
Is there anything else I should be doing? am I doing anything wrong?
i am a rookie at this but here is what i do:
resize them and pop the primer out. take my primer cleaner thingy and clean out where the primer was. soak them in rubbing alcohol for about 15 mins. rinse tourhly place in oven and let them dry. i then take them out, hand dry them and wipe em clean. re-prime them and load em up!this has worked well for me as the primary gun i reload for ( my 270wsm) produces sub 1/2 inch groups with this method!
77" coues buck, last day 571 yards. .257 Wby. 115 VLD
My cases get a full benchrest prep even though they might not be going into a custom chamber.
That way i know that i have crafted the finest cartridges that my ability will allow, this inturn gives me the upmost confidence in my ammunition.
You are not doing anything wrong, but if you want ultimate accuracy full prep is the way to go.
Some will tell you it is not neccessary for a hunting rifle, i disagree, consistant accurate ammo will always be the best ammo.
I dont go to the extremes of measuring case capacity with water but i do segregate cases by weight.
All cases are then fired once before prepping.
Primer pockets are then cleaned and uniformed, flash holes are both uniformed and deburred (even though i am using Lapua Brass),cases are then necked down and expanded back up to fit trimmer and turning mandrels, then trimmed and neck-turned.
Standard de-burr on the outside of the neck and a VLD de-burr on the inside.
To finish off i rub each case mouth with wire wool to make sure ther no sharp edges.
Cases are then cleaned and polished ready for re-loading.
Thanks all, Ian, does how you trim your cases make a difference?
What tools would I be looking at getting to uniform the primer pockets and flash holes? ( I dont even clean out my primer pockets! )
Also do Lapua make brass for 25-06 if so how does Lapua brass fire form?
Here is what works for me. For utmost accuracy I buy my brass in bulk. Then just neck size, lightly chamfer and go shoot it. Now my regular prep. I throw the fired brass into a tumbler with dry crushed walnut media. I let it shake for 24 hrs. I then run it through my Lee Collet die to size the neck and knock out the old primers. I then reseat new primers, throw the charges if using ball powder or weigh each one to perfection and then seat the bullets. I randomly check brass length and when it gets to max I will bring them all back to just under max length with an RCBS trimmer. I will probably switch to the Lee one soon. I believe it's faster and more consistant. With the Lee collets my brass stretches little even when shooting max loads. I have found dirty primer pockets mean nothing and turning necks on a factory chamber means the same. I never bump the shoulders back. I prefer a nice snug fit. I just keep my lugs clean and well lubed. Partially neck sized brass with consistant powder charges and seating depths have been the biggest factors for accurate ammo for me.
__________________ Build a man a fire and you heat him for a day. Set him on fire and you heat him for life.
G'day mate , Lapua offers brass for the 30-06 and the lapua brass is tops . I have fireformed hundreds for my 243 AI and then fired and reloaded them 3 or 4 times already without any problems and using the Lee collet neck die I still have loaded cartridge runout in the .001 to .002 range , mostl under .0015.
I do not trim necks or " uniform " flash holes on this brass. Using rounds loaded in this fashion I shot a personal best 300 yd. group of .537 yesterday. I am aware that that is no great shakes compared to what can be done but remember , 1. no neck trim
2. no flash hole work
3. Inexpensive Lee collet neck dies ( that require no lube [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img])
4.And finallly , I have yet to push the shoulders back at all .
Hope this helps , good providence on your loading , Jim Brown