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Brass splitting at neck/shoulder. Lots of pics.

 
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  #22  
Old 10-06-2013, 09:29 PM
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Re: Brass splitting at neck/shoulder. Lots of pics.

Spend $30 + a few more in shipping and get a "go" gauge from mansonreamers.com for your rifle. Then repeat the test you just did. THAT will be the answer to the question. I am also suspecting that the neck dimension of the chamber is "generous" so you need to measure a neck after you resize it (on a new case, not that brittle junk) and install a bullet. Get that OD then compare it to the OD after firing. Too much clearance there will really hurt your brass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fishwater View Post
I stuck one piece on scotch tape on the back of one of these brass and my bolt will not close. This only added 1-2 thou length, so I think my headspace is ok?
Thanks.
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  #23  
Old 10-09-2013, 02:24 AM
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Re: Brass splitting at neck/shoulder. Lots of pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fishwater View Post
I stuck one piece on scotch tape on the back of one of these brass and my bolt will not close. This only added 1-2 thou length, so I think my headspace is ok?

This stuff came with the rifle when I bought it. I think it was pretty darn old despite the fact that I was told it had only been reloaded once.

I think the fact that I FL resized them didn't help matters either.

@ Bulletbumper, I do not lube the outside of the necks, but I brush the insides with a brush that has a small amount of case lube on it. I do use Barnes bore cleaner on this rifle occasionally, but I think the chances that it contaminated this brass is very small. Yes, this ammo was loaded for over a year before I shot it. I thought that was acceptable?

Thanks.
So you are saying that you size the necks without any lube ??
If that is what you are saying then the necks are going to be work hardened a lot and the brass may have been very hard before you got it ! Very hard necks sitting around loaded (under stress ) for a year adds extra hardness but the cracking is on the shoulder not the neck so maybe the neck sizing without lube is flexing the necks enough to start the cracks more than anything else . I also think that the brass has impurities in it . However I think several things are working together .
A good dry lube for neck sizing is 50% Moly powder and 50% graphite mix.
To further reduce friction on the necks polish up inside the case necks with a clean bore brush wrapped in a thin layer of wire wool . Chuck it in an electric screw driver and go in and out a few times. Then polish up the outside of the case neck with wire wool. When you add the dry lube into the mix the sizing job will be much easier on the case necks in future .
Ammo loaded for a year is quite ok if the brass is soft and good quality to start with but your neck tension will be higher and more inconsistent then when it was first loaded but add this year to already hard necks .
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  #24  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:26 AM
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Re: Brass splitting at neck/shoulder. Lots of pics.

It is a pressure excursion, and the crack locations are the site of the yield point.

Lose that brass with unknown history, and work up another load.

Boy, those bullets DO infringe the powder space! Why not seat them out?

Some of those cases look like they have been crimped, which is a function possible with your seater die, either intentionally, or because of some overlong cases. Have you checked your brass OAL?

Crimping can elevate pressure, as can deep seated bullets with full house loads.

Last edited by LONGSHOOTER; 10-09-2013 at 10:01 AM.
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  #25  
Old 10-09-2013, 01:00 PM
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Re: Brass splitting at neck/shoulder. Lots of pics.

Thank you for the replies.

That was my first thought, that I messed up the bullet seating, and they might have been crimped a bit. It was scary, because EVERY SINGLE BULLET was coming out cracked.

The cases were all trimmed to length before being loaded, and were all within spec.

Also, the cartridge is already over COAL spec. I could seat them out a bit further but they are right in the middle, in between the recommended, and absolute max length right now. That bullet is just really long!

Remember, once I took these remaining bullets apart, the brass was incredibly hard/brittle.

I am in the process of getting new brass, and will be paying very close attention to the loading process, especially the lubing and neck/shoulder resizing part.

I really appreciate all the help.
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  #26  
Old 10-09-2013, 10:54 PM
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Re: Brass splitting at neck/shoulder. Lots of pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fishwater View Post
Thank you for the replies.

That was my first thought, that I messed up the bullet seating, and they might have been crimped a bit. It was scary, because EVERY SINGLE BULLET was coming out cracked.

The cases were all trimmed to length before being loaded, and were all within spec.

Also, the cartridge is already over COAL spec. I could seat them out a bit further but they are right in the middle, in between the recommended, and absolute max length right now. That bullet is just really long!

Remember, once I took these remaining bullets apart, the brass was incredibly hard/brittle.

I am in the process of getting new brass, and will be paying very close attention to the loading process, especially the lubing and neck/shoulder resizing part.

I really appreciate all the help.
You are on the right track to better reloads and not over working your brass . It's not all your fault as I am fairly certain the brass was very hard and poor quality when you got it . If you do use expander ball type dies then annealing is also a good idea after say 3 reloads in your case .
I still say get someone to make a body die out of a 30-378 Full length sizing die and it will solve a lot of issues . Also don't size all the way to the shoulder as this will take some stress off the expander ball as it comes back through .
Brass works well when it's the right hardness for the job harder at the base softer at the shoulder and mouth but if it's too hard where it needs to be soft then things can change rapidly . As hardness increases the grain structure changes and the brass looses it's ability to stretch without fracture .
Get a piece of thin brass plate and cut it in two , bend one piece back and forth until it fatigues and breaks . Then bend the other one once and anneal it with a blow torch then when cool bend it again and so on , it will go on and on not breaking .
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