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338 lapua oal reloading

 
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  #15  
Old 11-11-2013, 03:24 PM
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Re: 338 lapua oal reloading

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Originally Posted by deerslayer1435 View Post
After you said this I looked in my manual on the first page of the lapua sections were it says all the detail of the bullet like the brass length, overall length(I guess just a common length) and after looking closely I seen were each bullet has its own overall length and surprisingly the bullet that I'm using it says to seat it at 3.55 oal wich is what I was seating it at anyways..also I found out if I seat the bullet longer that this like at 3.686 I found out that when I close the bolt on the gun it just seats the bullet farther down like at 3.55 inches soy question is should my bullet be able to slide that easily because I don't use great force to close the bolt down?
You really need to do a WHOLE lot more reading before you try to reload anything else or even pull the trigger on a reload. Especially if you don't know what SAAMI specs are.

That is not called a "common length"...That is THE saami spec length abided by all manufacturers as the "standard" for their factory chambers, and ammunition's overall length. That is the specifit set of specifications that all manufacturers have to stick to and abide by.

SAAMI - Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute

SAAMI | Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute

Moving along...If you're craming bullets into your chamber, then obviously there is a serious issue going on with those bullets....Did you load them in the brass backwards? If not, then lets move along....We need more info.

Also, I'm really not trying to be a jackass, I promise. But please can you try to use more punctuation, it's hard to tell where you stop and start.
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  #16  
Old 11-11-2013, 04:59 PM
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Re: 338 lapua oal reloading

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Originally Posted by MudRunner2005 View Post
You really need to do a WHOLE lot more reading before you try to reload anything else or even pull the trigger on a reload. Especially if you don't know what SAAMI specs are.

That is not called a "common length"...That is THE saami spec length abided by all manufacturers as the "standard" for their factory chambers, and ammunition's overall length. That is the specifit set of specifications that all manufacturers have to stick to and abide by.

SAAMI - Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute

SAAMI | Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute

Moving along...If you're craming bullets into your chamber, then obviously there is a serious issue going on with those bullets....Did you load them in the brass backwards? If not, then lets move along....We need more info.

Also, I'm really not trying to be a jackass, I promise. But please can you try to use more punctuation, it's hard to tell where you stop and start.
Sorry about the punctuation, I am using my phone and sometimes it's roughy to type on this little thing. as far as the reading, trust me I've done my fair share of it but have never had no one show me the ins and outs of things!

I did not load the brass backwards!
I am usin nosler partition 338 bullets. That measure .336 in diameter.
and the pills will not jam farter into the casing just by sliding the bolt! The bolt actually has to be pushed down( but it doesn't take a lot of force to do it). So if I put a bullet in the chamber that is seated at 3.568 and close the bolt all the way in the firing position and I extract the bullet it will than measure at 3.50
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  #17  
Old 11-11-2013, 06:21 PM
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Re: 338 lapua oal reloading

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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
If it's a bushing die. the bushing fits inside the die body and is removable and you need to size your neck to your pill and order the appropriate sized bushings. Bushing dies are considerably more expensive than a fixed cavity die, like 2 times as much so, if you paid less than a hundred bucks for the die set (new) it will be fixed cavity.

If it is a bushing die and you haven't calculated the diameter of the pill versus the neck diameter of the case, you probably have the incorrect bushing installed.... but I don 't think you have a bushing die, I think it's fixed cavity.

The reason I ask about the expander ball has to do with it's relative position in the die itself. You want the ball to expand the inside of the neck BEFORE the neck reaches the upper cavity and the outside gets sized. one reason I always remove the decapping pins from all my dies and use a dedicated decapper die plus a dedicated decap die has a much stronger decap assembly so you rarely break pins. I use a Lyman BTW.

If, the expander ball is HIGH in the die cavity, it elongates the neck an excessive amount because it's working the neck brass against the inner diameter of the upper cavity. Consequently, your cases grow excessively, you trim the cases to over all length and the necks get progressively thinner, eventually craking. The metal goes somewhere. In this case you are trimming it off and the neck gets thinner and thinner.

As a rule (and I can get disputed on that on this forum), I myself don't ever use a neck sizer die. It stays in the box if it came as a set. I tend to buy dies one at a time and so I don't buy neck dies if I don't have to. Reason being, a neck die only resizes the neck and shoulder datum area. You want to resize the body as well (which goes against the grain on fireforming brass) but again thats how I do it.

The Lapua case is an abnormality in itself because of the length and diameter versus generated pressure upon ignition. To that end, you are right against the benchmark for annealing and annealing properly is a whole other subject.

Even with a fixed cavity die, it's possible to alter the neck tension by reducing the diameter of the expander ball with fine crocus cloth or even fine steel wool (depending on how much you want to reduce it and increase neck tension, however, after the first firing and subsequent resize, the neck is starting to workharden and won't be as ductile as it was when the case was virgin brass.

With any die, bushing or fixed cavity, you can 'bump' the shoulders back. You can get a dedicated bump die but all dies for bottleneck cases will bump shoulders back. oftentimes too much. The more you bump the shoulder back, the farther the case neck end, intrudes into the throat and that intrusion can cause hard ejection or no ejection at all in the case of a tight chamber.

Lots of things going on.
I am trying to upload pictures of my die I am having trouble figuring it out.
But the die decaping/neck sizing rod removes from the body like most other dies do. The dies cost like 70$ for the 3 die set
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2013, 06:37 PM
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Re: 338 lapua oal reloading

Where are you located? I think you need a proverbial "friend in the business" locally. There are a lot of moving parts here and I think solving them over the interwebs is going to be tough sledding...
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  #19  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:20 PM
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Re: 338 lapua oal reloading

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Originally Posted by varmintH8R View Post
Where are you located? I think you need a proverbial "friend in the business" locally. There are a lot of moving parts here and I think solving them over the interwebs is going to be tough sledding...
the great state of kentucky! Lol
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  #20  
Old 11-11-2013, 07:50 PM
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Re: 338 lapua oal reloading

'bout halfway between Mudrunner and myself.

If the die sets were 70 bucks, you don't have bushing dies. Bushing dies start at 200 and go up.

You have fixed cavity with a moveable (threaded) expander ball/decap assembly.

I think you can rectify the neck tension issue right away or at least mitigate it for the most part.

Take your FL die apart and remove the decap pin/collet from the expander ball rod and throw it in your storage box. From now on, if you want to decap a spent case, use your Neck Size die with the decap rod screwed down so the decap rod is sticking out of the die body about 1/2". When you decap a case, just use the neck sizer to pop the primer and no more. Under no circumstances run the case up into your Neck Sizer die, never, never.

Back to the FL sizer die...

Tak a case, any case but preferrably a case with a loose case mouth.....

Take your FL sizer die and screw the expander ball down so it's about halfway up inside the die and lock it (look up inside with a flashlight to determine that its halfway down the die or better). Put your die in your press, raise the shellholder and ram to the top. Run the die down to the shellholder and THEN BACK IT OFF A HALF A TURN and lock it. Lube and resize your brass and report back. That should emininate the tension issue unless the case mouths are workhardened. Forget about camming over the ram and all that for now, we will get into that later...

One step at a time.

I really don't want to come to Kentucky, but Sully lives in Cincinatti and he knows his way around the reloading room. I might ask him.... He will do most anything for the right powder.....lol
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  #21  
Old 11-11-2013, 09:14 PM
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Re: 338 lapua oal reloading

Quote:
Originally Posted by varmintH8R View Post
Where are you located? I think you need a proverbial "friend in the business" locally. There are a lot of moving parts here and I think solving them over the interwebs is going to be tough sledding...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
'bout halfway between Mudrunner and myself.

If the die sets were 70 bucks, you don't have bushing dies. Bushing dies start at 200 and go up.

You have fixed cavity with a moveable (threaded) expander ball/decap assembly.

I think you can rectify the neck tension issue right away or at least mitigate it for the most part.

Take your FL die apart and remove the decap pin/collet from the expander ball rod and throw it in your storage box. From now on, if you want to decap a spent case, use your Neck Size die with the decap rod screwed down so the decap rod is sticking out of the die body about 1/2". When you decap a case, just use the neck sizer to pop the primer and no more. Under no circumstances run the case up into your Neck Sizer die, never, never.

Back to the FL sizer die...

Tak a case, any case but preferrably a case with a loose case mouth.....

Take your FL sizer die and screw the expander ball down so it's about halfway up inside the die and lock it (look up inside with a flashlight to determine that its halfway down the die or better). Put your die in your press, raise the shellholder and ram to the top. Run the die down to the shellholder and THEN BACK IT OFF A HALF A TURN and lock it. Lube and resize your brass and report back. That should emininate the tension issue unless the case mouths are workhardened. Forget about camming over the ram and all that for now, we will get into that later...

One step at a time.

I really don't want to come to Kentucky, but Sully lives in Cincinatti and he knows his way around the reloading room. I might ask him.... He will do most anything for the right powder.....lol
ok thank you I will go try that right now... The only part I don't understand is when you say to use the neck sizing die to decap the primer, but you say to never run the case up into the neck sizing die! So how do you decap the brass if you don't run the brass all the way up to allow the decamping pin to decap the primer?
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