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338 Lapua, hard to chamber

 
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2012, 04:34 PM
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Re: 338 Lapua, hard to chamber

I just went through the same thing with my 260 Reminton. Initially I loaded 44gr.of H4831sc and had no problems using my FL sizing dye. I tried working up loads using some VLD's up to 46 gr. There were no pressure signs but no matter what I tried which included three different FL dyes, the cases were expanded near the base and would stick in the chamber. When I went back to my brass that wasn't overpressured , or new brass with my original 44gr.grain load I had no problems. Once the Lapua brass was over pressured, nothing would bring it back. Even overcamming excessively. It's possible that your new lot of H1000 was hotter than your original. I just had this issue with both H1000 and Retumbo and had to recalibrate my 6.5x 284 loads 2 gr. lower to get my original velocities. It is possible that the 92 gr. load you used with the new lot, which is pretty hot even with the older lots of powder, may have expanded your brass beyond resizing. You might try backing off a few grains using new brass and see if you still have the brass sticking. I don't know if this is the issue, but the fact that you didn't have any problems until you changed powder lots leads me to believe this should be looked at first. iMHO.
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  #9  
Old 07-30-2012, 06:14 PM
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Re: 338 Lapua, hard to chamber

Another thing to look at is how fat the case gets just above the web. If it's anything like a 7rum I had, the dang brass will be fatter than the max. spec. drawings. If so, you'll have to have your barrel set back a couple of turns and your chamber re-cut. I gave my rum back to the store because Rem wouldn't touch it. The brass from that rifle zipped open two perfectly good fl sizing dies( a redding and a rcbs) and they still wouldn't do anything(the dies looked like they were hit with a log splitter). It miked at .555" instead of the nominal max of .550".
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  #10  
Old 07-30-2012, 08:07 PM
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Re: 338 Lapua, hard to chamber

I appreciate everyone's help. Once I got home tonight it was back to the shop to troubleshoot more. I pulled out the decapping assembly to see exactly where the case will be sized in my Forester FL sizing die. The only thing that was sized or touched the die was the neck. The body wasn't touched. I looked at some specs for the Lapua in a Lyman reloading manual for maximum measurements.

.............................................Fired Brass. New Brass... Lyman book

Rim _____________________.584"___ .5835"_____ .588"
above extractor grove ______.584" ___.5835"_____ .587"
shoulder _________________.546" ___.542" ______.544"
Half way up the case _______.567"___ .563"________ N/A

What I noticed is all measurements are below what is listed in the book besides the shoulder measurment. Another difference is the middle of the case where there is on average a .004" increase in size. The book doesn't have a measuremnt for this. It varies due to the case taper, but I measeured at the same spot on each case. Also, when I put to cases together so the bodies are pressed together, you can see light at the ends and notice the middle of the body is the contact point. Not sure if this is normal.

What I am thinking is the chamber is somewhat tight, or the sizing die is way too big. Measuring the inside of the die where the last part contacts the die, measures .588" , .004" larger than the fired brass. The issue in the chamber must be the middle of the body which reinforces the sharpie test. Hope this clarifies it some.

Jeff,

I will try your shell holder trick. Hopefully the changing of dies will be the key. I should have them here in a couple days.

Last edited by SAPPER26; 07-30-2012 at 08:11 PM. Reason: trying to line up numbers
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  #11  
Old 07-30-2012, 09:18 PM
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Re: 338 Lapua, hard to chamber

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPPER26 View Post
I appreciate everyone's help. Once I got home tonight it was back to the shop to troubleshoot more. I pulled out the decapping assembly to see exactly where the case will be sized in my Forester FL sizing die. The only thing that was sized or touched the die was the neck. The body wasn't touched. I looked at some specs for the Lapua in a Lyman reloading manual for maximum measurements.

.............................................Fired Brass. New Brass... Lyman book

Rim _____________________.584"___ .5835"_____ .588"
above extractor grove ______.584" ___.5835"_____ .587"
shoulder _________________.546" ___.542" ______.544"
Half way up the case _______.567"___ .563"________ N/A

What I noticed is all measurements are below what is listed in the book besides the shoulder measurment. Another difference is the middle of the case where there is on average a .004" increase in size. The book doesn't have a measuremnt for this. It varies due to the case taper, but I measeured at the same spot on each case. Also, when I put to cases together so the bodies are pressed together, you can see light at the ends and notice the middle of the body is the contact point. Not sure if this is normal.

What I am thinking is the chamber is somewhat tight, or the sizing die is way too big. Measuring the inside of the die where the last part contacts the die, measures .588" , .004" larger than the fired brass. The issue in the chamber must be the middle of the body which reinforces the sharpie test. Hope this clarifies it some.

Jeff,

I will try your shell holder trick. Hopefully the changing of dies will be the key. I should have them here in a couple days.
Any measurement above book numbers is excessive. The numbers Lyman lists are max. I have the Lymanbook too. I'd like to know what your measurement is right above the web where it starts to swell when fired. If that is above Lyman's .587" number, you have a fat chamber and it either needs work, or you are going to have to find dies that will work with it. As I stated in the earlier post, .005" over book numbers was enough to break dies.
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  #12  
Old 07-30-2012, 09:47 PM
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Re: 338 Lapua, hard to chamber

Lefty,

I'm not sure what you mean by the web. I think you're talking about the area just above the extractor groove (toward neck) where it starts to taper. It measeared .584" which is .003" less than maximum and essentially the same as the unfired brass. The measurement at the shoulder is .002" larger than what the lyman book suggests, however, when I sharpied that area, it didn't show any rub areas there.
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  #13  
Old 07-30-2012, 10:02 PM
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Re: 338 Lapua, hard to chamber

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPPER26 View Post
Lefty,

I'm not sure what you mean by the web. I think you're talking about the area just above the extractor groove (toward neck) where it starts to taper. It measeared .584" which is .003" less than maximum and essentially the same as the unfired brass. The measurement at the shoulder is .002" larger than what the lyman book suggests, however, when I sharpied that area, it didn't show any rub areas there.
Right above the solid head of the case where it swells when fired is where I'm talking about. Look at the case drawing on page 45 of the lyman book(#49) for what I mean for web. That should be your largest measurement for girth on a tapered round and if it is over-book numbers(.587") your chamber is too big and either needs work or you'll have to find dies to work with it to get your sized #'s .002" or so under fired #'s.
As I said earlier, I had a 7rum with somewhat similar issues, the rifle acted like I wasn't really sizing brass, brass was over dimension, splitting fl dies, etc.. I should have re-barreled or re-chambered, but I threw in the towel and got my money back. I still wish I had that action, as mag. lefty actions are hard to get at times.
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2012, 08:58 AM
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Re: 338 Lapua, hard to chamber

It looks like you have a tighter than normal chamber, caused by a worn reamer.

The body taper should be straight (No bulges). this will make extraction difficult.

I would find a good smith and have him touch the chamber with a good/new reamer
and reset the headspace.

Factory ammo is sized to small base diameters to feed in any chamber, so unless you have
a set of small base dies, you can't size them. You could buy a set of Hornady New dimension
dies that can be adjusted down to small base dimensions, but you would still have a bulge in
the chamber that would give you problems.

I would just go ahead and have the chamber set back and head spaced. If you are not sure of
the condition of the smiths reamer buy a new one for your self, let the smith use it,and keep it
for later use or sell it to someone on this site.

This is one reason I don't rent reamers. (I don't know there history and how many times they
have been used. A new reamer is a very small part of the cost of a custom build and it is not
the place to save money.

In the order of importance for a quality,custom build You have to start with ;
1 = a quality barrel
2 = a quality chamber reamer.
3 = quality gunsmith to accuratly machine and assemble all of the componants.
4 = a quality stock properly bedded and floated.
5 = load quality ammo.

The best componants available can't make up for any of these things if one or more is left out.

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