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300 RUM Bullet Crimping

 
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  #1  
Old 06-17-2012, 10:11 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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300 RUM Bullet Crimping

I am new to reloading, and may be biting off a big chunk starting out with 300 RUM loads. Anybody have good advice on bullet crimping. Every factory load I've shot has had crimping, and would assume with the recoil it would be needed. I'll be loading TTSX, and would like to try VLD's as well. This is a topic I see almost nothing at all about.

I'd appreciate some expert advice on this, and anything else that may need to be considered. I'm looking to work up accurate loads for this rifle before hunting season. I just had a custom builder build this gun on a factory action. Blueprinted action, Lilja barrel, and McMillan stock, Timney trigger and want to squeeze all the accuracy potential from it after the money that I've spent with all the custom work.

I'd appreciate some advice
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2012, 12:38 AM
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Location: New Mexico
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Re: 300 RUM Bullet Crimping

I would recommend against crimping your reloads in your 300 RUM. There is really no need to. I have never crimped any of my loads and don't even crimp my rounds in my AR type rifles. The recoil is not going to be bad enough to knock the bullet into the case much if at all even with a RUM. In my opinion, You will get better results w/o crimping.

If you have not ever reloaded, I would suggest buying the Barnes reloading manual that they have available. You should read all the information that it gives you on reloading in order to better educate yourself on the art of reloading. You can also find a lot of information on this website by doing a search.

With the barnes bullet, I have found that it likes a good jump to the lands. You can start with the recommended seating depth that the barnes manual gives you and then play with the seating depth after you find an accurate load (you will understand more about what I am talking about when you read the reloading manual).
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2012, 06:31 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Re: 300 RUM Bullet Crimping

Thanks for the response. I have a Barnes manual, and will continue my research here, and elsewhere. I will give it a try, and see what happens, but like you said I still need to educate myself a little more.

I appreciate the advice!
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2012, 11:22 PM
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Location: New Mexico
Posts: 1,318
Re: 300 RUM Bullet Crimping

No problem, if you have any other questions in the course of your reloading process, feel free to post it. I will try my best to answer your questions and there are a ton of people on here with more experience than I that can chime in too.
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  #5  
Old 06-19-2012, 12:18 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 10
Re: 300 RUM Bullet Crimping

hello fellow newbie reloader r u sure they r crimped or r seeing the canulure line on the bullet. havent figured out some bullets have the canulure some dont .maybe someone can chime in is there a advantage or not 2 have it.always thought that was a inspection line 4 factory ammo thanks jeff
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  #6  
Old 06-19-2012, 04:44 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
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Re: 300 RUM Bullet Crimping

Most factory ammo has at least some crimp because they have no idea at all how much hell you will put your ammo through before it is finally fired.
I've loaded thousands of rounds up to 375 h@h(8# rifle) and 405 win, and the only rounds that are crimped are the lever gun rounds, since the case mouth could snag on feeding. I used to crimp the 375, but I've tried without and it's fine.
A slight taper crimp to help with feeding issues is fine on AR rifles is fine, but most don't need it unless the bullet is a heavy match bullet. They sometimes have enough inertia to move a bullet as the action closes on it. I personally don't crimp AR ammo, even with 75 gr. bullets.
I do crimp bullets for my revolver also, same reason as the AR, bullets could move. The powder used in revolver rounds also requires a lot of "pull" for consistent ignition.
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  #7  
Old 06-19-2012, 07:27 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Re: 300 RUM Bullet Crimping

Thanks for the replies. All the factory ammo by any manufacture I've bought has had a visible crimp, no cannelure. I do agree with Lefty 7mm, and it is probably a manufacturing guideline to crimp bullets of magnum rounds. I'll also be loading .45 acp, and .44 mag, so bullet crimping may be needed in those cases.
I spent time last night reading post's on 300 RUM, and apparently there have been problems with chamber dimensions associated (chambers too tight), and FL resizing not bringing case dimensions back to tolerance with the overly tight chambers. First loadings, and factory loadings fine but extraction, and pressure problems on each successive loading.
I've not gotten this gun back from the gun builder yet, but would expect to by the end of this month.
Any suggestion on case trimmers? I have an RCBS Trim Pro, and have been trimming new cases down .001 over specified trim to length .44 mag, 45 acp. The Trim Pro does not seem to be cutting very square even with pilot, and have had to adjust constantly to get consistent trim lengths. I wondered if the rough adjustment screw was just not holding as I was having to adjust after each case. In any event, with my brilliance in solving these type things I had the bright idea to put a split shot in each screw hole in hopes that it would grip a little better, and good luck ever getting the lead out of theadjustment screw holes without channelocks, and maybe damaging the threads. Thought about a little heat to loosen the lead up, but will probable do some thread damage in the process. I think in the end you get what you pay for. I'm considering the Wilson trimmer with cartridge specific case holders. Does anyone know if these case holders work equally well with new brass, as firedbrass? Is the Wilson worth the money?
Sorry so long a post

Last edited by cserwin; 06-19-2012 at 07:34 PM. Reason: incorrect info
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