Why zero at 100 yards?

[Forester]

It depends on the caliber, but I zero at the longest even hundred yards that will still let me take a point blank, no hold over or under shot all the way back to the muzzle. Most of the time that is 2 or 300.

Also, I ALWAYS zero windage at a longer distance because small errors in your zero may not show up at 100 and would be more obvious at 3 to 500. To do this though you need a near zero wind day to be sure you are not accidentally including some wind value in your zero.

[MontanaRifleman]

I grew up learning ot shoot in PA. To my recolect, everyonr zeroed at 100 yds. I now live and hunt in the West and everyone here that I know, zeros at 200, 250 or 300 yds. the hunting is a lot more open with more longer shots.

I agree with BB to pick one range for all my rifles and Forester to zero windage at longer distances, especially if you are going to be shooting long range.

I use 200 yds for my zero (elevation). Any shots less than 300 yds are point and shoot no brainers, hold slightly below the back on 300 yarders.

[Down Under Hunter]

I like to use the 100 m zero for simple verification that the scope is dead on. It virtually eliminates the shooter error factor in confirming the zero and I have learnt that "near enough aint good enough !" I aint happy with a half inch right and half inch low (still looks decent in the scope) but will put you out down range. The easiest distance I have had to work with to confirm that everything is square. If its on, its on way out there !

DUH