What would be some of the things that i could do with this gun?

[TruckerB]

Hi all I just came across you folks and thought i would drop in and see what i could learn. Where i live and hunt there is alot of posibilities for long range shots nothing to see a moose out at 1500 yards. Now thats just a little to far for me at the present time. But last season i nailed this 18 pointer at alittle over 500 yards. Now i know that this aint "Long range" but I'm sorry to say that it took me 6 shots to put a bullet into him. It was the money shot heart/lung and went down in about 30 seconds. I freely admit that it was a fluke shot and looking back I never should have taken that shot because i didnt have the skill to make a clean kill. Thats why i'm here, to learn.
I got a Remington model 700 7mm rem mag that i hand load the shells for. I use winchester brass with reloader 22 powder and Nosler 175 grain partitioning bullets. These bullets seem to give me a real good grouping at 100 yards about 3/4 inch (at least i think that is good) What i want to know is what are some of the things that I could do to this gun to make it a real long range gun, what are some of the things that i could read, are some of the modifications? O BTW the scope is a bushnell 3x9x40 Trophy.

[ewallace]

Welcome TruckerB
1 I would start with a good range finder (Wild or a laser) that will accurately range to the distance you intend to shoot.
2 Make drop charts from a computer program this one is a good place to start http://internet.cybermesa.com/~jbm/b...traj/traj.html
3 I would get a Leupold long range tactical scope like the 6.5x20x50 or 8.5x25x50 these scopes have repeatable adjustment for elevation and windage.
4 Site your gun in at 100 yards. Then Practice shooting at different ranges using the range finder and drop chart to determine how much you have to turn the scope knobs to hit the target.
Crow Mag

[BountyHunter]

TruckerB
Second what Crow Mag said about scope and practice. As for gun, there are a couple things you can do.

If this is not a sendaro type stock(alum bedding block), look at getting a different stock and a good pillar bedding job. If sendaro, then have gunsmith "skim" bed it. Have gunsmith lap lugs, adjust trigger and recrown. That will just about give you max potential for money with that factory barrel. After that it is strictly money is the limit, with custom barrel and chambers etc.

Good quality reloading tools and techniques will help more than anything else to improve you fast. Get Sinclairs int catalog or go to website and order their book on precision reloading. Great info for starting out and building quality LR/BR loads.

Go to 1k matches, watch, listen and ask lot of questions and start shooting most importantly and have fun.

Good Luck.

Bh

Yup, I think that pretty much covers it...

just remember to practice, practice, practice

[baldeagle713]

Crow mag,
Thanks for the Ballistics link! Now if it would just worm up above freezing so I could get the crony out and get my Volositys I'd be in there. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

[4mesh063]

Tucker,

I'm assuming that you don't have a sendaro as you didn't mention that. This is a sporter gun.

If you want to hold costs down and still get a new barrel, I'd look on EBAY for a 7Mag Sendaro Barrel. You can get take off's and used barrels for $35. A Sendaro stock with the bedding block in it is $40. So then, do your own bedding job for $5 with some epoxy and synthetic oil as a release agent and you're on your way. Now wrap some sandpaper on a deepwell socket and root out the barrel channel till there's almost nothing left( you got it for nothin) and if you don't like the way it shoots, have a smith ram another reamer in .250 deeper and get a nice custom chamber to see what you can do with that. have it recrowned, get the rangefinder as mentioned above. All but the rangefinder, you're only out about $250 total including smith work. If you don't like it when you're done, put the old stock and barrel back on, sell the crap and your now an experienced gun nut! You'll do it again!

[Mysticplayer]

TruckerB, welcome to the site. Not much you can't learn about LR shooting/hunting here.

As to your rig, I think you are off to a great start. First off I would switch bullets. Go with a 140 to 154gr Hornady SST or Ballistic tip. Collet neck size your brass and consider match primers. Bed your action and free float that barrel. The Rem pressure point is not a personal favorite.

What you are looking for is being able to hit a milk jug consistently at the longest range you want to shoot. A moose is much bigger of course, but you want some room for error and wind.

On broadside presentations, the bullets above will be plenty to drop your moose inside 750yds. Not the best choices for inside 100yd hunting though.

Get a good quality scope with turrents. I am a fan of Bushnell/Bausch&Lomb scopes. Well priced and excellent optics. A 4X16 Elite 4200 will cover all of your bases. They should come with turrents too. If you are also still hunting, then consider a non AO scope with turrents.

I hunt with a B&L 2.5X10 and have put factory turrents on. I am able to engage targets out past 1000yds. Being in a '06, I limit the shots on game to inside 700yds.

I am working on a 30Gibbs with a B&L 6X24 that I will use as a "beanfield" rifle and can take game as far as I can range (900yds).

Both use SST bullets and will stay inside MOA at their furthest range. That is all I need for Mule deer through to Moose.

You need a good rangefinder. I prefer the Leicas and the 800's are now on sale for about $570 Cdn (am guessing you are in Canada). Work up a drop table so that you can click up the elevation to the nearest 25yds.

Start burning powder. Lots of it.

Consistency is more important then absolute accuracy. You are trying to put a bullet into a 3'X3' target. You just need to know that your bullet will get there every single time.

Do your load development at longer ranges. 200 to 300yds is ideal. The reason is that stringing will not be obvious at 100yds and it is possible to have a good shooter, at 100yds, that will not stay on the paper at long range.

Hope the above helps...

Jerry