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What action to build on

 
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  #1  
Old 01-03-2008, 09:10 AM
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What action to build on

Alright, I have my practice rifle. As all things go, I am now turning my sights to my ultimate long range rig. This will be a full custom blow out job, on the ultimate cal. Just doing my homework. What action is the best to build on, and what calibers should I be looking at to end up with the best 1000 yard elk rifle? Cost is not an issue, and this will be a dedicated rig. I already know that remington has the most after market product, but I am looking more at ultimate accuracy than parts. I want to know what is the most accurate, strongest action to build on. What length of barrel, and weight should I be looking at for this project? I have a lot of practice to do yet so time is not such an issue.

Last edited by straightshooter; 01-05-2008 at 12:15 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2008, 09:34 AM
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Well since you asked:

Stolle Kodiak Action, BAT or a Stiller I use them all and they use the detachable magazines from HS Precision

Krieger Tube

Composite stock pillar bedded -- I like Manners, Robertson or Micky

Jewell Trigger

I shoot mostly wildcats and my long range heavies are the 300 Slowpoke which starts as a 300 RUM, 338 Lapua Improved and the Warp 7 which starts as a 300 win mag.


Obviously a lot more detail can be provided but this is the summary.
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2008, 09:34 AM
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Sounds like your describing a BAT action to me. Unless you pick one up from bruno or russ haydon or some other retailer your in for a long wait.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2008, 09:39 AM
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Id wait on Kirby's "Raptor", Lilja #6 or 7 fluted 28-30", jewel trigger, a edge or kirby's slab break, manner mcs gat stock, and add a NXS.

In 270AM, 7mmAM, or the .30 or .338's.

There ya go! my next one, not sure what Cal I want next but will be one of those except the 270AM since I have one. I also cant come up with any justification on needin another.

Your doin it right though buy the best of the best and your done makes it easy!
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2008, 01:21 PM
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too many options right now. What desirable characteristics are you looking for in your rifle besides accuracy?

Weight limits, type stock (wood, glass, thumbhole), how do you hunt, reload or do you want factory capability etc, do you like cut or button barrels, looking for max velocity in a barrel (canted rifling of Broughton, Rock etc).

BATs and Stolles are BR actions and not for working hunting rifles to drag thru the woods IMO.

I would not make them my first choice as they are just a little too tight for a reliable hunting gun. BATs will and have locked the bolt up with one grain of sand on the lugs. I know, mine did and had to take it to a smith and repolish the lug after and set it back. BATs are great but softer metal than other actions too.

I would look at Stillers Predator or TAC 300/338 as my choice. Stiller top end price is $400 under cheapest BAT and $300 under Stolle, and readily takes all Rem parts, mags and triggers. These are proven quality rigs, no questions and proven delivery times are very reasonable.

Pick your barrel, Hart, Shilen, Broughton, Lilja, Krieger, Brux, Bartlien etc. Choose first cut or button, regular or canted rifling, that will tell you what barrel mftr to use. Holland QD brake or his new one would be my choice. They are proven, quality, designed for hunting rifles, and not super expensive. Max 28-30", cost no object order it from the mftr fluted.

Stiller action, Wyatts box and I would use standard tuned Rem trigger to 1.5 to 2 lbs. Lower pull is not needed or recommended for true hunting gun. Save $140 cost over safetied Jewell. Now if you just want to say I have a jewell, go for it but not needed.

Caliber, 30 Cal is a given as minimum for distance, KE and bullets, maybe 338. 300 RUM, 30-338 Lapua and 338 Lapua. you can use the TAC 338 for the Lapua case which is 10x better than Rem so no need to go lesser quality Rem based wildcats which are driven by need to stay in a standard Rem action. How important is availability of factory ammo? if important, that makes 300 RUM and 338 Lapua top candidates.

I would order my own no neck turn reamer and go guages from Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Guage or Dave Manson at Manson Reamers.

240s in the 30 and 250-300s in the 338 will go in excess of one mile accurately with enough KE for what you want.

Stocks- too much variety. What do you like? Wood, glass, thumbhole, adj cheek etc. Joel Russo, McMillan, Manners, Holland, HS etc are all good and you can find one that fit your desires and needs once you define them a little more.

Stiller 20 MOA base ordered with action, pick your rings. TSR rings are 1/3 cost of NF or Badger and just as good. No need to spend more.

Scope- Leupold, NF NXS or Schmidt and Bender, all three will work well, some better than others but at an increased cost.

Weight depends on hunting on foot, horse etc. I would try to limit it to 12-13 lbs with scope.

Smiths- lots of very good ones and certainly not limited to this board. Find a local one if possible. Nothing like being able to drop it off, and talk to them in person eye ball to eyeball. Look here ( we now have 4-6 good smiths here) and at "top recommended smiths" on www.6mmbr.com in particular, has highly recommended smiths all over th US that have 30 yrs building top quality LR hunting rigs like Bruce Baer, Mark King, John Myer, etc.

BH
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2008, 12:05 PM
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Bountyhunter, I prefer a laminate thumbhole stock that is adjustable, and a stainless button rifle barrel that is fluted. Weight would depend on the caliber, I am not worried about carrying a heavy rifle (I have great legs and endurance, I am a long distance runner). I have always owned heavy for caliber rifles, they just set up better for me, and I do quite a bit of shooting, so I prefer the heavier barrels. The type of hunting I would do with this new rifle would be different than my tech. now. I would hike into a good elk country and set up in a hot spot to over looking a large area, and wait till a nice bull stepped into range with the right conditions for a shot. I have spent a lot of time reloading for accuracy and have all the equipment needed. I would prefer a caliber quite capable for 1000 yard elk shots, not marginal (I already own a 300 wsm for practice). I have never done any wildcatting but am open to the idea. This is were I need the most help, picking the action and caliber. I am out of my area of expertise here. All I have ever needed was minute of deer to 300 yards. Floating and bedding always got the job done. I think I will be needing quite a bit more than that now. Stupid question, I have never thought of the 338 wm as a long range rig, more of a heavy hitter out to about 300 yards. What is the max. range of the 338 wm for bull elk?

Last edited by straightshooter; 01-06-2008 at 12:37 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2008, 08:28 PM
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Joel Russo stock then. he hangs around that Bruce Baer character and I am sure that he can use one of his thumbhole patterns if he does not have one and Joel has adj cheek set up. Maybe someone else knows of a laminate thumbhole mftr.

Hart, Lilj are both standard button, and Broughton 5S is canted button. Will not go wrong with either of those. 'Go with fluted 30" HV taper barrels, with the new Holland brake. Broughton will give about 50-75 fps more than standard rifling normally and top notch barrel. All of those delivery is right at 8-12 weeks.

Stiller action. He was working on his own long mag boxes last I knew too.

338 WM is good 600 or so for elk I am sure, but I would not plan on 1k with it.

IMO that leaves the 30-338 Lapua, 338 Lapua or 338 Ack Imp, would be my top picks depending on whether you want a 30 or 338. The 338 AI will run standard 300 SMKs at 3000 fps out of a 30 and this next year you are going to see several new 338 bullets come out. 338 AI is just load with bullet seated little long, little lube on case shoulders and shoot to fireform. Cases last forever. Either Kiff or Manson has reamers or any, go with no neck turn and min SAAMI.

The 338 EDge is a very good round if you want to stay with the RUM case too. I just like the top quality of the Lapua brass. Others will differ.

Start getting your parts together while picking and talking to smiths.

BH
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