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'starter' scope etc.

 
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  #8  
Old 05-21-2014, 01:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Central Valley California
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Re: 'starter' scope etc.

Scope suggestions:
Determine the distance you expect to be shooting and select a power, or range of power, that meets your needs for target acquisition at that distance. If it's intended for hunting, consider the field of view. If it's for target, field of view is relatively unimportant as long as you can put the scope on target.
You will want a parallax adjustment capability.
Choose a reticle that you can work with in terms of mathematical calculations.
MilDot scopes work well for some, MOA scopes work better for others and converting Mils to MOA on the fly can make your head spin.
I thought I wanted a MilDot; shoulda bought the MOA.
Understand that "MilDot" means on thing to one group of scope manufacturers and something else to others. Example: MiDot spacing on some scopes equates to 3.6 inches, center to center, at a given power (usually the highest power). Others apply different specs. (Zeiss Conquest scopes are 1.8 inches at highest power) so if you choose a MilDot scope it's best to find out what the specs. are before making your decision.
If you're not sure about which reticle to select, consider a quality scope manufacturer (e.g. Leupold) that is willling and equipped to change out one reticle for another with fast turn around.
Would enjoy talking about your heritage rifle but will look for another post on that subject.
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  #9  
Old 05-31-2014, 10:02 AM
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Re: 'starter' scope etc.

I would take a serious look at the Nikon Monarch III's. I am extremely happy with all 3 of my Monarchs, the easily resettable turrets on the Monarch III's are awesome.

I paid $325 for the 2.5-20X42 on my .308 which works great for my mid-range lighter wight and packable deer/pig rifle. The 4-16X50mm I now have on my 7mm Rem Mag only cost me $391. Have a 2-8 on my CZ .22LR. For around $1,000 I was able to outfit all three rifles with the same basic scope, turrets are the same, duplex reticle is the same. I have had no complaints at all with the clarity of the glass or tracking ability of the turrets. The one problem I had was a dustnib inside the first 4-16 I got which Nikon replaced with the newest model at no cost.

At around 1:30 on this video you can see me adjust the turrets on the Monarch III. I swapped the replacement 4-16 on to my 7RM and bought the 2.5-10 for my .308. Did quite a bit of sighting in that day. Super simple adjustments: 7mm Rem Mag 150 ETip H4831 ladder test - YouTube
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  #10  
Old 05-31-2014, 08:46 PM
rfd rfd is offline
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 84
Re: 'starter' scope etc.

cool old rifle, but it may take some efforts and dollars to make it an moa shooter.

i doubt there's a better scope for the dollars than the swfa s/s series 10x42 30mm tube. also comes in 6x, 12x, 16x, 20x ... for a bunch more $$$, there's other swfa scopes to scope out, including variable powers.

this is a Tough military sniper scope designed for the navy ... $300, fabulous, i have three, with the 10x my fave.

for a really nice .308win build on the cheap, consider the marlin xs7vh. 'tween $340 rifle and the $300 scope, Lots less than a grand and a buncha dollar$ left for the obligatory required accessory goodies, including a $100 drop-in boyd th lam stock.
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  #11  
Old 06-01-2014, 10:17 AM
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 5
Re: 'starter' scope etc.

Thanks, gentlemen, I'll look into those options when I get ready to spend the bucks to upgrade. Meanwhile, I've been out a couple times since last post, with just the peep sight. I have always been an exclusively open-sights guy, but that just doesn't work any more and I've learned that the magnifying effect of a small aperture lets me shoot pretty good with my unaided eye. I had her sighted in and grouping pretty good at 50 yards and moved over to a 100 yard bench; got one shot placed decently, but then I couldn't find the front bead to line up another shot. Looked up and the whole front sight was on the ground! Apparently that's pretty common, and not surprising now that I see that it was only glued on. Have to be impressed with a glue that's held up to heat and cold and g's since pre-1950, knowing my Dad used to hunt a lot. Anyway, it's back to the gunsmith. I probably ought to start another thread about this new direction this adventure is taking.
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