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Setting up a scope square?

 
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2006, 09:32 AM
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Re: Setting up a scope square?

jwp may have a point.

I use a bubble level on my ring base so that the rifle is "cant free" when firing and therefor my verticle crosshair is plumb because thats the way I set it up.

The problem with setting a plumbed crosshair onto a canted rifle is repeatability. Without a mechanical reference of some sort, I would image that you would be holding the rifle slightly different each time. Over loongrange this would induce both verticle and horizontal error in shot placement.
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  #16  
Old 10-14-2006, 09:45 AM
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Re: Setting up a scope square?

[ QUOTE ]
jwp may have a point.

I use a bubble level on my ring base so that the rifle is "cant free" when firing and therefor my verticle crosshair is plumb because thats the way I set it up.

The problem with setting a plumbed crosshair onto a canted rifle is repeatability. Without a mechanical reference of some sort, I would image that you would be holding the rifle slightly different each time. Over loongrange this would induce both verticle and horizontal error in shot placement.

[/ QUOTE ]

A scope level will asure proper alignment when holding the rifle and elimate slight holding errors........
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2006, 01:17 PM
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Re: Setting up a scope square?

Yes, I understand that you are saying the only thing that needs to be level is the reticle, the position of the rifle is irrelevant, right?. When I refer to a "canted" scope, I am refering to a reticle that is not "aligned" with the way you hold your rifle. In my way of shooting, I "level" both the reticle and the rifle with the Earth's gravitational pull, or the Horizon if you prefer. I have also found over the years that the more perpendicular the retical is with the bore and the more parallel over the bore you are, the closer to POA you will hit the farther out you reach especially if you adjust your elevation to that distance. I also use a level on the scope or the base.
Good discussion.
db
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2006, 01:56 PM
ds ds is offline
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Re: Setting up a scope square?

Even with a plumb reticle in perfect conditions (no wind) a rifle dead nuts on at 100 yards will have the same horizontal POI at longer ranges 800 yards plus. Things like spin drift and corolis effect start to play a part.

Not saying that it is not best to start with a plumb reticle but some horizontal movement will happen at longer ranges. D. Tubb has a reticle in S&B 5-25x56PMII scopes is an attempt to deal with spin drift correction.

David.
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  #19  
Old 10-14-2006, 04:22 PM
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Re: Setting up a scope square?

Yes that's true, many small things contribute to opening up a group. But the long range shooters occasionally overcome it all and shoot some unbelievable groups. I shoot off the bench a lot but do not claim that I am a benchrest shooter. Most of the benching I do is load development in hunting rifles that have the capability to shoot very well a long way off. Once in a while I'll even take one up the road and shoot 1K, which really isn't that far anymore. Like many shooters I give great attention to even the smallest detail in my rifles and handloads. This includes optics and there mounting. I guess the bottom line for the individual never changes, do what works for you and in places like this share your ideas like we do. Many thanks to Len for starting and maintaining this site and to the many, many shooters that contribute to it.
db
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  #20  
Old 10-15-2006, 12:05 AM
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Re: Setting up a scope square?

Here is what you can purchase to do the scope level mounting thing and also an anti-cant level. If you purchase the kit from Lyon you get both. You do the plumb bob routine to get your vertical cross hair square. Here is the link to the website. Hope this helps, Sam.

http://lyon-inc.com/
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  #21  
Old 10-30-2011, 10:44 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Re: Setting up a scope square?

Hello, First post for me.

2 subjects.

1. I found this thread because the title aptly describes my problem. But most answers are not quite the answer for me because they assume the scope mount is parallel with the bore in the first place.

The problem I have is that the mount for one of my rifles cannot align parallel with the bore due to a very slight twist in the reciever. As it is the scope would only be good at some specific range I would tune it for and be off on everything else.

What I've come up with is to order some Burris Signature rings to re-align the scope parallel to the bore. Now, actually getting that as perfect as possible is what I need. Right now I'm waiting on the rings to get here but after that I'm going to try a centered laser mounted to an extra scope ring placed on the scope that has a weaver/picatinney rail. Using a laser bore sight also, I should be able to get them fairly parallel. I'm thinking if I can get enough distance to do this I can be reasonably aligned for a 200-300 yard shooter.

Any ideas on better methods I am all ears.

2. As far as making the crosshairs pefectly aligned with the rifle's - I am with JWP in philosophy. If you hold the crosshairs level to gravity (Not all horizons are level) it will work.

Level/square to gravity is where the physics of this is to me. I think the thing that really matters is how you hold the rifle when you pull the trigger - the barrel is round and perfect up-and-down changes with every imperfection you bring with standing and shooting.

Even perfectly squared scopes need to be aimed level to get best results IMO.

That being said:
I have a precise shooter that is perfectly aligned above the boreline and as low and close to the bore as I've ever seen. But I have to thank Savage and Burris for that - all by their design. I believe that scope system will always be better - more precise - than my offset scopes like on my 30-30 and Saiga.

I can see that precision shooting is best accomplished if everything is aligned perfectly up and down over bore centerline. I don't think all guns are made for precision, though.

Last edited by WorkingMan; 10-30-2011 at 11:36 AM. Reason: sp and addition
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