Thanks, I was going to put a little fridge in there to go with my TV, but my wife was afraid I'd never come out...
On the presses, I started out with the Hornady Pro-jecter progressive press at the far right of my bench, because of course I thought that was a must have. I pretty much leave it set up for adding powder and seating bullets for my .223 prairie dog rounds. As I learned more about ACCURATE reloading, I realized there isn't much that a progressive press is good for except pistol loading.
I rely heavily on the CoAx. I wouldn't be without one, really. The other is an older Hornady O press that I inhereted from a friend. I have it mounted to a board so I can C clamp it or store it. My kids like to help me load, so my younger ones de-cap using that press with a universal de-capper. I also use it for 45-70 work since you have to flip the universal shell holder on the CO-AX. Not hard to do, but I'm lazy.
I'm intrigued witht using the C press for the idea of making a portable powder/bullet seating rig for using at the range. Got the idea from the "bench tips" on the CED chrono site.
One thing I really like is the Midway gun cradle set up on the WorkMate..it's in the center of the room. It gives me a place to work on a rifle, clean it, etc. without taking up bench space. Plus, I can work my cleaning rod from squarely behind the gun, at waist level. This helps ensure that I'm not bowing the rods.
I started out almost 40 yrs ago with a Pacific press and their dies, scale. etc. Now I use a Sinclair arbor press,Wilson,Neil Jones dies, Bruno powder measure, Neilson neck turner,K&M primer tool,RCBS scale,Harrell press and Redding type S die. I load for almost 50 rifles from 17mach1V to a 30-338 with hand dies and I also load for a 45-70 and 38-55 plus 38 spl and 45. With the Neil Jones dies instead of full lenght sizing you can just bump the shoulder back. It took me alot of years and money to purchase all the loading equipment and learn how to use it I have now. To start out an RCBS package deal is good for the first time loader. I'd stay away from the Co-Ax press also get a Bonanza case trimmer and I would get Redding type S dies with a sizer and the package deals come with scales and just about all you need to get started. If you move up the ladder in loading like hand dies etc you will need most of what you have anyway. When you get into the hand dis etc it's good to have someone show you how to use all the equipment you don't want to get into a trial and error thing. One of the ways I learned was to go to a BR match and most of those guys will help you if asked. I don't shoot BR but wanted to learn to reload better and tailor my loads for each rifle. If I can be of any help let me know!
Out of curiosity, what don't you like about the CoAx?
I always wanted to try Neil Jones arbor dies. I bought an AR-15 bore guide and rods from him years ago. I always follow stainless rods vs. coated rod debates, I remember calling Neil and being convinced! I don't have a bore scope, but so far I don't regret using stainless rods.
Correct me if I'm wrong. I thought when you purchase a new case and fired once. You will need a fullsize die. When you fire again and the case will expand to fit perfectly to the chamber therefore you may not need the fullsize die, just use a neck size die. Does it depend on how much the case/brass stretch?
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Fullsize dies and neck size dies
Correct me if I'm wrong. I thought when you purchase a new case and fired once. You will need a fullsize die. When you fire again and the case will expand to fit perfectly to the chamber therefore you may not need the fullsize die, just use a neck size die. Does it depend on how much the case/brass stretch? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
From what I've read, yes. Eventually cases are supposed to need the shoulder 'bumped' back w/ a full-length die. I have about 3-4 loadings so far on my Hornady .220 Swift brass, and don't see the need yet...
Another reason that full-length dies are some times better than neck-sizing is that in the modern world of mass production CNC machining, some manufacturers still don't always get the chambers right in factory guns. If you have a less than concentric chamber (say, the neck is a little off center, or maybe oval), not a lot, but just enough, it can throw you fits when it comes time to neck-size/partial full-length size that brass. You would be only correcting the size of the neck, but your brass would now be crooked or off-center, just like your chamber. Unless your brass gets indexed to exactly the same point in the chamber, i.e. right-side up so to speak, it's going to be wedging in there and putting adverse forces at work on your brass. In that case, you might be better off to either a) get a new chamber ;p or b) full-length resize so tha your brass gets reset to the proper dimensions every time. Not a perfect fix, but kinda makes the best of a bad situation.