Re: Proper steel type for plates?
This IS a dated thread. I gave the 3/8" T1 plate to an older gentleman friend of mine that fall, never did shoot it until I had it all set up 100yds off his porch for him.
He shoots 308 and 7.62x39 SKS and pistols at it. He only shoots 100 yards and had never shot steel before... now he's hooked.
The 3/8" T1 turned out perfect for Joe, no dimples what so ever at 100yds with terminal velocity at about 2400 fps in the 308. However, my Dad shot it in the very top corner to see what his 300 WSM with 180 Barnes X bullets would do, perfect hole through it, so...
I can only guess that if it was in fact just "barely" putting the holes through it, then as hard as that stuff is, you might get 500, or even 300 yards away without divots in it.
Now yours is 3/4" TI, so unless the surface is just still too soft, (maybe all T1 is) you might have to keep it out there to keep the divots from forming in the front. It isn't going to bend or dimple out on the back, it's just to hard and thick.
T1 is a lot harder than mild steel plate, but still lacks the hardness that 500 brinnel has, that's what I've gathered by guys that shoot the 500 brinnel up real close with the 300wm and faster.
I wish I had a nice piece like that! Should be a great one. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Start far out there, 500 or so and work on in with heavy loads until you don't like what you see on the plate. Bout all I can say. Take good notes on what range and loads you used! Hell, that thing should last forever! [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
I think DBhostler was using 3/4" mild steel by his descriptions of the divot depths.
A 300 WSM with a 180 has about 2400 fps (3100 fps MV) terminal velocity at 400yds, same as the 308 does at 100 yds. 3/8" T1 doesn't divot, and 3/4" T1 shouldn't either.
Ian's shot lots of 3/4" mild steel, he'd know for sure.