Iím brand new to custom guns and long range shooting so, Iíve got a few questions that I hope you guys can help me out with. Iíve been in the process of gathering parts for my first long range gun (500, to 1000 yards) and I would like to make sure that Iím not making any newbie mistakes. Below is a list of all the parts that Iíve collected so far and I was wondering if there is anything that you see right off the bat that I shouldnít use.
Here is what I have collected so far:
Stiller Predator long magnum action
McMillan A-3/5 stock including aluminum pillars
Remington Bottom metal (Aluminum)
Picatinny one piece scope base
27" Schneider P5 barrel 1:11 twist- 5.5 taper (ordered)
NF 5.5 x 22x 56 NP-2DD scope
My plan is to have this rifle chambered in 300 RUM; triggers adjusted to 2lbs, and then have the stock bedded.
Some of my questions are:
Am I going to loose anything by using an aluminum floor metal? Is there something a better option out there that works better? I prefer to not have any magazines that could fall out and loose.
Iím planning on reloading and I currently have my eye set on some of the Berger bullets, among others. Do I need to specify anything when I take the barrel in to have the chamber reamed? I would like to make sure that I can take advantage of all their benefits of the match/ long range bullets.
I still need scope rings, what would you recommend. I'm not too concerned about weight
Do I need to have the action bedded since the rifle stock is a McMillan specifically inletted for the Stiller action along with the Schneider #5.5 taper barrel?
With the weight of the overall rifle, I don't think I will need a muzzle break; however, is there a benefit of having it threaded now compared to after the rifle is assembled?
I would greatly appreciate any help that you could offer and look forward to the day that I can return the favor.
If your not into detatchable mag the aluminum floorplate will be just fine,
You may want an extended window box from wyatts, this will let you load a longer OAL on your rounds.
The bedding of the stock to the action is done in one step with the pillar instal, you should end up with pillars and a full action bed.
Ask if the smith has a 300 RUM match reamer, the tolerances are going to be minimum saami spec and will aid in brass life, and resize easier. You could load a dummy round and send it with your stuff so he can throat the chamber to your bullet seating length, or order a reamer set-up if he dosen't have one already.
Coyboy, thanks for the idea regarding the extended box, I will look into it.
Also,I discussed the match grade reamer issue with my smith today and he said since I was wanting a match reamer, he would have to rent on.
Montanarifleman, Can you explain your concerns with the 1:11 twist. I ordered it by going off of what Gary Schneider recommended and the fact that McMillan's 30 cal tacticle rifles use the same barrel. Do you think that since the rifling is Poly that would have an effect on the stability of the bullet?
Also, after talking to my smith, he has had some personal issues and was uncertain when he could get started on my rifle.
Does anyone know of great gunsmiths in Arizona (Phoenix metro) that I could check into?
In the long range game, BC is the biggest factor in getting bullets down range. The higher BC bullets will be heavier, and more importantly as far as twist is concerned, longer. These bullets require tighter twists than the shorter, medium weight bullets of the same cal.
The 210 Berger VLD advertises a twist of 11". However, the 210 JLK VLD, which is almost identical to the Berger, advertises a 10" twist. You could probably get away with the 11 twist. But, IMHO, it's better to be on the conservative side. The velocities of the RUM will be friendlier to the lesser twists.
That being said, Berger is developing a a heavier/longer, higher BC bullet that will almost certainly require a 10" twist, if not a 9". The 240 Sierra MK, almost certainly requires a 10" twist if not a 9". There are a few custom/wildcat bullets that require 8"-10" twists. I will likely be trying a GS HV 177 (monmetal) in my 300 RUM, which requires a minimum of a 10" twist and would likely be better with a 9" twist. There is also another monometal being devloped which will require a minmum of a 9" twist.
If you have no plans of shooting anything with a higher BC than the 210 Berger, then the 11 twist will do well for you. But if you want to try any of the higher BC bullets, you'll need a tighter twist.
As far as gunsmiths go it depends on what you need done. You could try Brunos shooters supply on Deer Valley by the airport. He is one of the top benchrest builders and has the best selection of reloading items. I believe they are a site sponsor as well. If he can't help probably can point you in the right direction.