More NP-R2 photos

[Dave King]

Okay, let's try this again.

Forget about the shingles and leaves...

Here's a painted, calibrated device...hi-tech too.

The plywood has 4 inch black (vertical) areas, 10 inch black horizontal areas...the rest you can divine from the reticle.

I took pictures at 3 power settings.

I discovered after some head scratching and steel tape verification that the LASER actually reads 100 yards at 100 yards.







Note: it's difficult to see the LCD screen on the back of the camera in sunlight so these images are a poke-and-hope set of "quality".

Let's discuss how to use ALL of the available features of this reticle. I believe S1 is probably more knowledgable than most here on this so... S1, if you'd be so kind to help out and get us started.

[ 07-11-2003: Message edited by: S1 ]

[meichele]

A quick way to use that reticle as a range finder is as this: Size of target in inches divided by MOA * 100 = range in yards. Ok, first, as S1 stated at full power, the hash marks on the verticle line are 2 MOA. Lets say you are looking at the cross section of a deer (18") with the crosshair on his back and the 3rd hash on his belly is 6 MOA. this would meen that he is 300 yards away. 18" / 6 = 3 * 100 = 300 yards. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

[Sheldon]

What I'm really interested in is:

What kind of truck is that? Looks COOL!

[Brent]

R2 class is now in session!! [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Nice pics Dave. Perfect setup too! I'll go with the 100 yard range and the scope settings in the order that S1 said too. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]


"Half" the Size of Target (inches)
__________________________________ x 100 = Range (Yards)

Size Target (lines)


Here's an even simpler way that S1 shared with me a while back for ranging, keeps the number smaller for easier math in the head. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

One more tip for ranging while using the horizontal ticks, is that you can break down the nearest to center 5 MOA tick mark to 4 MOA because the vertical tick mark sticks out 1 moa, just helps break down the 5 to 4 to 2 to 1 and so on if you need to... a simple reference. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

I'm savin my brain for harder ones now Dave. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] You'll be doing all them with it on 22x right. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Thanks for the fun practice Dave! [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[Dave King]

Okay!

This is my first NP-R2 and I'm in the learning mode. First incorrect assumption on my part is that the scope is calibrated at the now infamous tick mark (11 power). (This was the reason for this series of photos...sort this thing out.) I believe I made this leap due to my use of the Leupold variables with MilDots, not an excuse just a statement/observation.

The distance is indeed 100 yards + or - verified by the LASER and twice checked (once by steel tape (at 298 ft) and once by measured cord (at 300 ft)).

The picts are simple enough, 5.5, 11 and 22 power as derived by others.

Brent thanks for the clarification in the other thread on the calibration being a 22 power.

Sheldon That's my hunting/beater/work truck. It's a 2002 Chev 2500HD, 8.1-liter OHV V8 with cast iron block 340hp @ 4200 455ft-lbs of torque at 3200 rpm. It has the ML6 (ZF S6-650) 6-speed manual transmission, 4.10 gears. It does NOT have limited slip differential and is a pain-in-the-ass in snow, rain, ice, wet or dry grass, chicken guts, road kill possum or anything else slippery. I often need to switch to 4 wheel drive to get the thing to do anything other than spin one rear wheel when trying to move from a dead stop if not on dry pavement. There are no extra creature comforts, manual windows and door locks, bench seat, no fold down center console, no extended cab, no carpet. It has a Meyer's plow frame on it that hangs so low that I can hit frogs crossing the road and neighborhood speed bumps cause a nice shower of sparks. It's a great truck other than that...it'll pin your head to the rear window on acceleration and cause you to stop at nearly every gas station (13 mpg). I've had it since last fall (Sept 2002) I believe and have a little over 22,000 miles on it. The tires are still the stock Firestone - "May Pops" but I'll get rid of them soon. I don't wash it and it has mud and grime on it from most roads as far off as Georgia and Alberta (oops! probably should say that...someone may want to quarantine the thing for a Mad Cow (BSE)prion check).


Back to the NP-R2

Okay.... we can accurately range with the thing (providing we know the power setting for reticle calibration). (target size in inches / M.O.A. * 100 = range in yards)

What else can we do with it?

We can measure with it providing we know the distance.

Deer/Elk antlers size = distance in yards (LASER) / 100 * M.O.A. = target size in inches.

We can use it for hold-offs.

Stinking 308 Win shooting old government 173's. Zero at 100 yards, come-up to 200 yards = 2 M.O.A., come-up for 300 yards is another 3 M.O.A., come-up for 400 yards is another 3.5 M.O.A. and come-up for 500 yards is still another 3.5 M.O.A.
Leave the scope set at 100 yards (an 22 power) and shoot the 500 yard target by centering the 6th tic/line down (12 M.O.A.)


What can we do with the reticle by changing the power setting?

How do we get a calibrated lead hold on a mover traveling 30 mph at 90 degrees, 350 yards, standard 308 & Gold Medal 175's?

[ 06-06-2003: Message edited by: Dave King ]

[ 07-11-2003: Message edited by: S1 ]