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Long Range Zero

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  #8  
Unread 11-10-2006, 02:48 AM
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Re: Long Range Zero

I fully agree with Fiftydriver. Hunting situations can require fast shooting where time is of the essence. Shooting allows time to click. Both situations can occur while "hunting", but a person's technique of spotting and stalking can often decides on time allowed. The further away the game which is undisturbed, usually the more time available to adjust. But if a fast shot is required and distance is known, then the ballistic reticle approach works great especially to somone new to LRH.
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  •   #9  
    Unread 12-04-2006, 05:16 AM
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    Re: Long Range Zero

    Glad I found this thread. I've got a 30-06 zeroed at 200 yrds and with my MP8 I am holding over at 9 mils at 700 yrds. Not far enough for me. From what I've seen here I should probably be okay to zero at 400 yrds and use my 10 mils, and below 400 yrds I should be able to use my 5 mils to hold down?
    Thoughts please
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      #10  
    Unread 12-04-2006, 05:58 AM
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    Re: Long Range Zero

    I go with a 200 yard zero with my stuff. I have several reticle options depending on the scope (Ballistic Plex, TMR, and ART).
    Since I started out with using the ballistic reticles and have moved to dialing I still use both with using the reticles for closer and dialing for further. If I am convinced I have time I would probably dial.
    I think the main thing is to practice, practice, practice with whatever you are using the way you will use it in the field.
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      #11  
    Unread 12-04-2006, 11:54 PM
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    Re: Long Range Zero

    I do have a few rifles and all were zeroed at 100 yards. It's by design to eliminate any confusion on my part. I can pick-up any rifle in my safe and not to be confused as to what distance the rifle was zeroed at. I'm also belong to the ranged it, clicked it and not sure about dumping it crowds [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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      #12  
    Unread 12-05-2006, 04:20 AM
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    Re: Long Range Zero

    I always use a 200y zero for centrefires, weather it's a .223 or a .338 Mega magnum. I don't see the point in 'point-blank-range' or sighting in for 3" high at 100y. I find it's better if the bullet never gets above 2" high so if a close shot pops up you can just hold dead centre and squeeze.
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      #13  
    Unread 12-05-2006, 09:11 AM
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    Re: Long Range Zero

    "I'm also belong to the ranged it, clicked it and not sure about dumping it crowds"

    I just joined that crowd the other day. Only one range session let me know it was way more comfortable than holding over/under for elevation and windage. (If someone would make a bullet that automatically compensated for the wind I'd be much happier)

    I zero @ 300 yds to limit the number MOA adjustment @ 1K but that's just a comfortability thing as the adjustment is only 1 full turn + 1MOA.
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      #14  
    Unread 12-05-2006, 09:38 AM
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    Re: Long Range Zero

    [ QUOTE ]
    Glad I found this thread. I've got a 30-06 zeroed at 200 yrds and with my MP8 I am holding over at 9 mils at 700 yrds. Not far enough for me. From what I've seen here I should probably be okay to zero at 400 yrds and use my 10 mils, and below 400 yrds I should be able to use my 5 mils to hold down?
    Thoughts please

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Hi,
    Here is a usefull link for your question.
    It is one spreadshit ballistic software what I modified for my self to show you the hold over in MILS and MOA at variable power scope.
    All you have to do is to input your balistic caracteristics (bullet BC, Gr, altitudine, temperature, and where you want your zero to be), and your default power scope where you have 1 mil at 100yards.

    Here is the link for you guys to download and use the program.
    http://www.canadaonlineclassified.com/ballisticMils.xls

    Cris
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