Re: Just getting into it...
As I see it one of the only problems you face is the Browning barrel weight and contour. Usually they are pencil thin. Doesn't mean you can't have satisfactory accuracy to 500 yards, however. There's a lot to precision reloading. Here's a list of some important factors:
1. resize all brass, even if new, and trim to same length. I weight sort mine and I buy plenty of brass with the same lot #
2. deburr flash holes
3. when resizing your fired cases, make sure shoulder is only bumped back .001-.002. You will need a gauge for this.
4. Use the best primers you can get. I only use Federal match.
5. Weigh each powder charge.
6. Weight sort bullets and measure bearing surface and sort. You'll need the tools.
7. Seat bullets according to ogive and mag fit and take note of COAL.
8. chrono loads
9. You don't have to have one but I use a concentricity gauge to measure runout.
10. I do not use an expander in my sizing die. I take my preferred brass per rifle, stuff in my preferred bullet and measure OD of case neck to make a dummy round. I send the dummy round and die back to die manufacturer and have them hone the die neck to 0.0025-0.003 less than the loaded case. That measurement is your choice. Eliminating the expander button/ball has greatly reduced work hardening on the brass and also the runout. No more lubing the inside case neck, and a whole lot less runout worries. ---- of interest, I noticed my Redding 270 sizing die was squeezing my case necks about 15 thousandths prior to my requested modification! That is ridiculous and work hardens the brass way too much. From such a reputable company, I was very disappointed.
11. If I feel like it, with certain rifles, I will outside neck turn my case necks. It works, trust me.
12. When I seat a bullet, I seat about a 1/3, then rotate the case about 60-90 degrees, seat a little deeper, then repeat, then fully seat. This also tends to reduce runout.
There's a few items in case you were not aware of them