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How to file Ruger 10/22 trigger

 
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  #1  
Old 02-21-2008, 02:21 PM
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How to file Ruger 10/22 trigger

I don't have the money to spend on a new trigger or pay a gunsmith to do it for me. So how do I file the trigger down a little bit. Right now it sucks..Thanks and any pics of the process would help greatly.
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2008, 07:10 PM
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Typically we don't file triggers. We stone or polish them. I'm not going to explain it, but I remember a site had a very detailed outline with pics. Can't for the life of me remember where.

Remember if you tackle it yourself you might be buying an aftermarket trigger, after you possibly bogger it up. A local smith should be able to make it workable for $50, if he's worked them before.
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Old 02-21-2008, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by summitsitter View Post
I don't have the money to spend on a new trigger or pay a gunsmith to do it for me. So how do I file the trigger down a little bit. Right now it sucks..Thanks and any pics of the process would help greatly.
This might help out a little. It'll give you some good reading anyway. Proceed at your own risk.
Stoning the Hammer - RimfireCentral.com Forums
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Old 02-21-2008, 08:39 PM
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Cowboy is right !!!

The sear has to be honed at the proper angle and even then
the outcome is sometimes very bad.

As a gunsmith I won't do them any more because the after market
triggers are so good and to do one right takes several hours and
for that amount of labor you can buy a good fully adjustable trigger.

I am a do it your self nut but some things have a point of diminishing
returns and this is one of them.

Midway has a sale on triggers going on right now and the prices are good.

You will spend hours messing with it and will probably not be happy
with it and then have to buy a trigger anyway.

I used to use a hand held 20 power microscope to look at the sear
and even though they worked great they looked like #%$@ through
the scope.

Just my opinion
J E CUSTOM
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2008, 07:37 AM
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Thank yall.
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  #6  
Old 02-27-2008, 06:02 AM
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The target hammer is what makes most of the difference in the 10/22. They run about $30, so I'd not waste my time trying to adjust one. This reduces the pull weight down considerably. You might still have a little creep and overtravel, but those can be fixed in other ways.

ss7mm gave you a link to a site that has more info than you ever wanted on the 10/22. I personally use a Volquartsen target hammer and the "JB Weld trick" on my 10/22s.

A good trigger will ruin you for the average trigger.
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