I was thinking about floating the barrel of my 280 Ruger MKII and my 7mm08 Rem 700 CDL. Both guns have pressure points near the end of the forearm.
I am worried that if I take the action out of the stock to float the barrel I might not tighten the action back to factory specs or something... I wasn't wanting to bed the action or anything since I know very little about that.
I am just wondering if I can mess anything up by taking the stock off, free floating the barrel, then putting the stock back on??? Thanks,
Thanks for the information. I might give it a shot. I ran a dollar through them the other day and both are touching about 1 inch below the end of the forearm. They shoot pretty good (1 to 1 1/4 inch groups at 100 yards) but just wanted to see if I could make them better. Also give me something to piddle with.. lol
JEs advise is sound, I'll offer a couple of thoughts though.
I'd start with the Reminton and see how it goes.
If that Ruger is shooting consistant 1" groups I'd hunt with as is. Messing with the bedding and screws on a Ruger may help but you run a higher risk of it going the other dirrection :o
If you take the ruger apart take note on how tight each screw is starting with the middle screw, then the back and finaly the front screw. Tighten them in reverse order starting with the front=then back and then the middle screw being carefull not to over tighten it!
For a sporter barrel with plastic stocks(or wood for that matter) I prefer to fold a dallar a few times ...especialy if it gets shot off of bipods
Good luck piddling
__________________ "Make everything as simple as possible, but not simpler." -Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
I have a Remington 700 LSS Mountain Rifle in .280 Remington, with the skinny Mountain Rifle profile barrel. The laminated stock has a pressure point bearing on the barrel about 1/2 an inch from the end of the fore end. My rifle is not bedded, the only modification I made was to lighten the trigger.
So, how does it shoot - extremely well. That is with GS Custom projectiles, 120 grains weight. I was at the range the other week, I put 15 rounds down the barrel in quick succession, with different weight powder charges, but the last 4 were between 1/2 and 1 inch. After 15 rounds the barrel was literally too hot too touch. However, trying that with Corelokts after 4 rounds the groups started to really open up, and had to wait for the barrel to cool.
There is no way that I'm going to bed my rifle - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If you are worried about ensuring that you have the same tension on your king screws when you put your rifle back together, you could buy a torque driver and follow G E Customs post on this page.
Last edited by kiwiwildcat; 03-03-2008 at 07:26 PM.
Word of warning on the Ruger, if you take out the lump in the forearm, thinking the barrel will float, your in for a big suprise. What happens is the whole barreled action will fit in deeper and the barrel will then contact more of the wood channel. You almost have to at least glass bed the reciever with tape wrapped around the barrel where the pressure bedding lump used to be. This will then hold the barrel off the wood during and after everything sets up.
Get your tape at least 1/8 inch thick. I heard some home smith guys put a shim under the front of the reciever to hold it up. I never tried it but seems it would be a pain in the rear over time.
The rugers I have floated barrels on responded very well with handloads developed after the work was completed.
man just talking about bedding a Ruger makes me want to cuss , but Cowboy is right and thats true for alot of guns from the factroy , the action inlet is way to deep , I always prefer to bed tha action before I go to removing anything from the barrel channel.
Take them down to "eddybo's" and make him bed them , hes watched
Mr. Don enough to give it a go , but make sure the Rem goes first.