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First Post/Question: 300 RUM

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Unread 12-12-2009, 10:37 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 602
Re: First Post/Question: 300 RUM

+1 on handloading, and + 1 on the muzzle brake. All advice given is excellent, but i would start with the handloading first as you may not need to do anything else. plus, before long, you will be saving money. we recently bought my nephew the same gun you mentioned, and they threw in a box of 150 grain level one loads. the gun shot between 1.5-2" groups. We then tried a group with each of our handloads and found one that shoots just under an inch.
we have two of these guns with brakes on them and two that do not. the defensive edge brakes are incredible! the other two will have brakes, its just a matter of time. without the brake i have to have a slight to moderate hold on the front of the gun, with the brake i can squeeze the rear bag and shoot. We have done nothing else (except trigger jobs, they are a must in my opinion) to these 4 guns and they will all shoot an inch or better after finding the right loads. the ones with brakes are alot easier to consistently shoot under an inch. not sure it makes the gun shoot better, but it helps me to shoot the gun better. good luck.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 12:07 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Central Idaho
Posts: 1,219
Re: First Post/Question: 300 RUM

Originally Posted by ProfessorM View Post
I have a Model 700 300 RUM. I bought the gun new in 1999 and put a 4.5-14-50mm Leopold on it. It has a stainless barrel/synthetic stock. It is not the heavy barrel. I do not reload, I shoot the factory 150 grain Scirroco bullets from Remington. On a good day, I can get a group around 1.5 inches at 100 yards. I have probably shot around 400 rounds through it. Here is my question/scenario: I can kill a deer consistently to 350 yards(if he will stand still!) I want to have confidence out to 600yds and possibly beyond. What would you do? Thanks for your help. (I needed this website before I was married, when I had money!)

I feel like being a smart ***** tonight and will say this. You shoot a 1 inch group at a 100 yards which is probably better than the average hunter and you can consistently dump bucks at 350 yards if they are standing still. That tells me that the rifle and you shoot pretty good so why don’t you practice to the point where you can take a moving buck at 350 yards then the 600 yards with a standing animal will be a walk in the park. The rifle will get tuned in the process I guarantee you.

There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man. Sir Winston Churchill.

Everything that is really great and inspiring is created by the individual who can labor in freedom. Einstein
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Unread 12-13-2009, 01:01 AM
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Location: Wyoming
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Re: First Post/Question: 300 RUM

Way to go kcebcj, All us old farts like me and you got to keep these younguns in line. Just kidding. We need to go a huntin some time. I understand what your saying there but some may not understand. I don't think you are being a smarty.
Predictions are difficult, especially when they involve the future
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Unread 12-14-2009, 09:53 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 51
Re: First Post/Question: 300 RUM

Thanks for all the info. I was away from my computer all weekend. Sounds like I have the "right" gun for what I want. My dad used to load all of our shotgun shells but I have never been around rifle handloading. I really wouldn't know where to start or what I would need or how much $$$. I am in Arkansas, anyone know a good gunsmith that could install a muzzlebrake and get me headed in the right direction? (and no offense taken kebcj, I agree with you, just gets expensive shooting $70 boxes of shells)
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Unread 12-14-2009, 11:17 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: az
Posts: 3,226
Re: First Post/Question: 300 RUM

i would not shoot a 300 until it had a break and the trigger adjusted. adjusting the trigger is easy and you can find it one line.
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Unread 12-14-2009, 08:11 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Re: First Post/Question: 300 RUM

I would not reccommend adjusting your trigger unless you know what your doing...could be unsafe. As far as reloading-get yourself a reloading book that takes you through the basics such as Lyman's 49th Edition Reloading Handbook or similar. Cost $500-1,000 depending on how serious you want to get. Here's a Link where you can browse and get an idea of some reloading tools...there are many such other places to shop.

Specializing in Reloading Supplies and Equipment for Firearms - Sinclair International
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Unread 12-27-2009, 11:11 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 330
Re: First Post/Question: 300 RUM

This is my Rummy. I am using a M700LH LSS stock, and the rifle has a 30" Benchmark Barrel.
I had my rifle pillar bedded and the barrel channel free-floated.
I am shooting 102.5 grs of US869 with a Hornady 208gr AMAX. I am just shy of 3170 fps with this load. I could go much hotter if I choose to do so. It is minute of mule deer accurate (5 shots 1/2 moa no sweat).
I have a Seekins 20moa site rail, seekins rings, a defensive edge level with a angle cosine indicator, and a Nikon MonarchX 30mm tube 4-16x50mm MD Scope.
I would like to ditto the comments regarding handloading for your rifle.

Snohomish Co. Washington
NRA Life Member
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