You can true the action and rebarrel and easily get .5 MOA. However you are looking at $800 more for a 400 yard deer rifle. If built a 7 STW on mountain rifle kevlar stock, 26" #3 hart barrel and it would shoot .2-.3 normally, so it can be done. However, I used Neil Jones dies ($275) and BR loading techniques.
Suggest you learn and work with reloading more. Take that $800 buy quality reloading tools and a chrony and learn to make quality reloads. In the process you will find that you can tighten it up to 3/4 MOA in all probability
Ive a remington 700 that was 22.250,it is now a 308. i have trued the action and installed a factory remington 700 308 barrel that i begged in a gun shop for free. it shoots consistent 3 shot groups of 1/4" at 100m with Norma 180 grain Vulkan hunting ammo. the head space has been taken back to a minimum so that when a cartridge is seated in the chamber and the bolt is closed it forces the case between the bolt face and the shoulder with slight pressure. some factory barrels will shoot, some won't, they are all a bitch to clean. only way to make sure is have the action trued and have a good quality barrelinstalled. then try Hornady ammo.. Norma and lapua too..Pete
I believe thatthe weak like in this system is the "factory" ammo. The factory stuff is very generic , trying to get decient accuracy out of all guns. If and when you start reloading I believe that you'll probably be able to cut your group size by at least 25% maybe even 50% , that would equal groups in the .5-.75" range.
The trick to getting thin barrels to shoot is letting them cool suffeciently.
IF , I were going to do anything to a complete factory rig to try to help it shoot I would send it off and have it cryogenicaly stress relieved , I would doubt that any factory barrels are frozen and most are hammer forged so their is definatly some stress in that tube , NOTE: I'm not a big fan of having guns frozen but I have seen 5 factory guns done and ALL of them had tigher groups when they got back , they groups diden't wonder about like they did before.
In short , get your self a reloading kit and start rolling your own ,I know a couple guys that are getting into it and have gotten great results from the folowing setup
Lee Anniversary Reloading kit ($65)
Forster FL Bench rest die set ($50)
The Forster dies are great especialy for the low price , just set you FL die to resize just the neck and you'll see better groups from that. With this setup you'll be able to load better bullets for longe range and taylor the seating depth , one of the guys started out reloading by simply pulling the factory bullet and seating them back but not as deep so the bullet diden't have such a long jump to the troat.
I must have missed your question to me a while back.
Temps up here are pretty mild, but I still let the little 308 barrel cool 2-4 minutes between shots after the first couple down the tube.
Last week I really got it smokin hot to see the effects. I put about 80 rounds through it and half the strings were 5 and some 10 shot groups fired with no mercy on the little barrel. I fired enough both ways that I saw no difference in "this" barrel here.
I have noticed my 300 Ultra shift around some if I don't keep the barrel temp stabilized.
Thanks for all the excellent info. At the current time, I don't have time to reload; but I am going to in the future. I'm trying to get this rifle to be my dual purpose target / long range hunting rig, but I don't mind lugging around the extra weight. I'm not going to do anything to it untill the winter (can't shoot much here in VT in the winter).
So after soaking in the info given, I think I'll have a heavier (#4 or #5) aftermarket barrel put on, have the action trued, and have pillars installed and keep my featherweight stock (I like the looks). Hopefully by next summer, I'll be able to start hand loading.
Thanks again for all the info. A year ago I thought a 200-300 yard shot was far, now shooting 650 doesn't seem to bad; thanks to the info on this site. Thanks again; you guys are great! [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
think you should try some different ammo, but with the 270 WSM being new, might not be too much to choose from.
Personal opinion is going to a new slightly heavier barrel ($450-500) is a big waste of money if you are still going to shoot factory ammo with limited choices. Doubt that will give you what you want by itself.
Have the muzzle of the barrel recrown and pillar bedded first. Then retry.
If the bore seems rough while running a patch through it, then order the David Tubbs Final Finish kit ($30) and have someone load 5 each of the bullets to fire down the barrel. They are coated with a grinding type compound in various grits to smooth the throat and bore. Normally helps accuracy in factory guns. Has 5 grits and 10 bullets each. Think I would start with 5 each and see what it does.
But custom barrel and same factory ammo is probably still not going to fix your problem and cut groups to .5 MOA.
.5 MOA can easily be down with lightweight gun, custom barrel and quality reloads. Your problem is that the 270 WSM does not have multiple brands of ammo to try and find the load the gun likes. You are really going to have to reload.
You can go on Ebay and buy used Rockchucker press ($50-75), used RCBS 10-10 scale($30), dillon micrometer ($30 new price),Forester BR 270 WSM dies ($60) and other odds and ends for an additional $150-200 and that will get you started very easily. All of that is less than your rebarrel job and you can hit the .5 to .75 MOA mark very easily and cheaper to shoot than factory ammo.
The only thing I'd add to what BH said is, you will also be able to shoot twice the ammo for the same cost, which means the learning cuve (we all have one) gets twice as steep in all likelyhood, a huge bonus!