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Unread 05-23-2003, 10:16 AM
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[ 07-11-2003: Message edited by: S1 ]
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Unread 05-23-2003, 12:06 PM
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Unread 05-23-2003, 02:37 PM
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“Foul-out” style copper remover

Radio Shack components needed;
1.5-12VDC/300mA Regulated AC-to-DC
Model: 273-1662 $14.99
"EIAJ" Adaptaplug Sets
Model: 273-1646 $4.69
Dual Mini Board
267-148 $1.69
10-Amp Car Battery Clips one each of red and black
270-344 $2.49
Panel-Mount Jack (make sure it fits one of your adaptaplug ends)
274-246 $2.99
MSC Company components;
Large bore 10-24 3FT SS #316 Threaded Rod
item # 64815772 $3.05
Small Bore 6-32 3FT SS 18-8 Thread Rod
Item# 04355129 $1.29
Sinclair International components;
PG-X Chamber Plugs
Pick appropriate size $9.50

If you know about electricity then this shouldn’t be hard, I don’t know a whole lot about it and managed to get it to work.

Take the Dual mini board and break it in the middle, you’ll only need one end. The way this board works is you jump connections using smaller wire lengths. First examine the panel-mount jack and see how it needs to be solder onto the board and where the wires are going to be run, this is where your ac adaptaplug is going to plug in. Solder it to the board and run two wires to the other end of the board and solder them in. Cut two leads about 30 inches long, one red wire one black wire. Solder them to where you just soldered the leads from the panel-mount. Now if you know electronics you could put an led display on this thing and use it to measure the resistance of the fluid in the bore when it reaches a certain copper saturation level, I don’t, just run it for 10 minuets at a time and it is clean. On the ends of the leads solder the appropriate colored 10-amp battery clips on.

Drill the correct tap drill size hole in the end of whichever chamber plug you have making sure not to go completely through,and tap it, it should be straight too, but can be off center and off angle to some degree just make sure that when the threaded rod is installed it DOES NOT contact the bore surface as this will short the thing out.

Once you have the chamber plug tapped screw in the threaded rod and insert into rifle bore insert bolt and chamber the plug. You may need to coat the chamber plug in some of that tool handle stuff or wax or whatever so it does not contact the metal of the gun. Now you can if you wish cut to length the rod so that you don’t have 18 inches hanging out of your barrel. Make sure you leave enough on the muzzle end for the nut needed to tighten the threaded rod.
Fill bore with favorite copper removing solution.
Muzzle end of the barrel; leave enough rod so you can get a nut and a washer on it with a spacer that does not conduct electricity, wood, plastic. Drill the hole in the spacer and place over end of rod, place washer over end of rod, thread on nut and tighten somewhat. Don’t over tighten it and break the threaded rod, or break something else or whatever.

Plug in your ac adapter and plug the end into the panel mount thing. Clamp the black battery clamp on teh threaded rod and the red on the gun or barrel. Start off with 1.5 volts and see if the liquid starts to seep out of the nut on the muzzle end.

I always push it to 3.5 volts until I see it start to boil out then back it down to 1.5 volts. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area and wrap a rag around the end of your barrel to catch any solution that may run down it.

Don’t leave it on for to long, I usually do it for 10 minuets at a time. The first time I used this was on a friends 300 Weatherby, he had never cleaned it. I examined it with a flexible bore scope that engine shop has and found extreme fouling so much so that for the first 6 inches or so of the bore you could see no lands of grooves. It took three 10 minute applications of this procedure and it was completely void of all copper by examining it with the bore scope once again.

It works and it is a hell of a lot cheaper than the “foul out” system.
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Unread 05-23-2003, 03:21 PM
Writers Guild
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,459

S1, I also use the GM top engine cleaner. Works great.

Another money saver is to use concentrated Ammonia (no soap added) from a janitorial supply store. Cost me $14 Cdn/GALLON-anyone wants some. Basically, the same ingredient in copper solvents like Sweet's but much stronger. Dirt cheap and will not remove the moly layer in your barrel.

This stuff is very strong and should not be used indoors - you will quickly understand why. Since using this stuff, I don't need to use JB much anymore except when I want to lap the bore. The ammonia solution is so strong that it will remove copper even in a pitted WWII barrel right to bare metal.

You don't leave this stuff in the barrel for more then 5 min. Wipe it out with a clean patch and that's it. Use a light oil if living in high humid conditions-refer to S1's post.

I have compared this solution to every cleaner I have including Sweet's, Bore shine, Hoppes, A spray foam, and Barnes CR10.

I cleaned the barrel with the commercial solvents until the patches came out white. Then cleaned again with the ammonia.

The only one to not have copper removed with the Ammonia solution was Barnes CR10. All of the others still got blue patches. The worse one was Butch's bore shine and hoppes copper remover. Pretty much didn't take any copper out. Might work well in BR type barrels but not in production barrels.

I cut my own patches using cotton flannel sold at any fabric store. Basically, what we get when we buy those rather expensive bags. I use my wives quilting cutters and mat to cut the cloth into patches. Takes no time at all. You get a custom fit too.

With these changes, I have dropped my cost of cleaning by at least 75%. Of course, that just goes into more bullets/powder.

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Unread 05-23-2003, 11:53 PM
Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 2,410

Thanks for sharing that info - very interesting to learn about the use of the products mentioned. You are much more practical and innovative than I am - matter of fact I have to admit to being spastic about putting anything except my "tried and true" gun-cleaning chemicals into my custom barrels.
We use a very similar cleaning regime as far as the patch count and brushing. I just might get really brave and try the auto-industry products, I sure cannot argue with what you are saying.
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Unread 05-31-2003, 08:05 PM
eb eb is offline
Bronze Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Loxahatchee, Florida U.S.A.
Posts: 44

S1 ever use mercury out board engine fuel injector cleaner, called power tune ? ebb
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Unread 05-31-2003, 11:46 PM
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[ 07-11-2003: Message edited by: S1 ]
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