Re: CLEAN RIFLE FOR LESS MONEY
“Foul-out” style copper remover
Radio Shack components needed;
1.5-12VDC/300mA Regulated AC-to-DC
Model: 273-1662 $14.99
"EIAJ" Adaptaplug Sets
Model: 273-1646 $4.69
Dual Mini Board
10-Amp Car Battery Clips one each of red and black
Panel-Mount Jack (make sure it fits one of your adaptaplug ends)
MSC Company components;
Large bore 10-24 3FT SS #316 Threaded Rod
item # 64815772 $3.05
Small Bore 6-32 3FT SS 18-8 Thread Rod
Item# 04355129 $1.29
Sinclair International components;
PG-X Chamber Plugs
Pick appropriate size $9.50
If you know about electricity then this shouldn’t be hard, I don’t know a whole lot about it and managed to get it to work.
Take the Dual mini board and break it in the middle, you’ll only need one end. The way this board works is you jump connections using smaller wire lengths. First examine the panel-mount jack and see how it needs to be solder onto the board and where the wires are going to be run, this is where your ac adaptaplug is going to plug in. Solder it to the board and run two wires to the other end of the board and solder them in. Cut two leads about 30 inches long, one red wire one black wire. Solder them to where you just soldered the leads from the panel-mount. Now if you know electronics you could put an led display on this thing and use it to measure the resistance of the fluid in the bore when it reaches a certain copper saturation level, I don’t, just run it for 10 minuets at a time and it is clean. On the ends of the leads solder the appropriate colored 10-amp battery clips on.
Drill the correct tap drill size hole in the end of whichever chamber plug you have making sure not to go completely through,and tap it, it should be straight too, but can be off center and off angle to some degree just make sure that when the threaded rod is installed it DOES NOT contact the bore surface as this will short the thing out.
Once you have the chamber plug tapped screw in the threaded rod and insert into rifle bore insert bolt and chamber the plug. You may need to coat the chamber plug in some of that tool handle stuff or wax or whatever so it does not contact the metal of the gun. Now you can if you wish cut to length the rod so that you don’t have 18 inches hanging out of your barrel. Make sure you leave enough on the muzzle end for the nut needed to tighten the threaded rod.
Fill bore with favorite copper removing solution.
Muzzle end of the barrel; leave enough rod so you can get a nut and a washer on it with a spacer that does not conduct electricity, wood, plastic. Drill the hole in the spacer and place over end of rod, place washer over end of rod, thread on nut and tighten somewhat. Don’t over tighten it and break the threaded rod, or break something else or whatever.
Plug in your ac adapter and plug the end into the panel mount thing. Clamp the black battery clamp on teh threaded rod and the red on the gun or barrel. Start off with 1.5 volts and see if the liquid starts to seep out of the nut on the muzzle end.
I always push it to 3.5 volts until I see it start to boil out then back it down to 1.5 volts. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area and wrap a rag around the end of your barrel to catch any solution that may run down it.
Don’t leave it on for to long, I usually do it for 10 minuets at a time. The first time I used this was on a friends 300 Weatherby, he had never cleaned it. I examined it with a flexible bore scope that engine shop has and found extreme fouling so much so that for the first 6 inches or so of the bore you could see no lands of grooves. It took three 10 minute applications of this procedure and it was completely void of all copper by examining it with the bore scope once again.
It works and it is a hell of a lot cheaper than the “foul out” system.