Re: any special tricks to handloading Belted Mags?
I'm a big fan of the 7mm Rem mag. If I were limited to only ONE centerfire rifle for everything from prairie dogs to elk, it would be chambered for the 7 mag. That said I don't currently own one! I have, however loaded for 3 different belted magnum rifles over the past 10 years or so, with great success. What has worked for me is to routinely neck size using a neck die, not a FL, and I use the FL die to set the shoulder back no more than necessary to just "feel" the case when the bolt closes, usually .001-.002, when the case gets difficult to chamber. I use a Stoney Point comparator to accurately guage my resizing. I also use a set of Redding Competetion shell holders to adjust resizing rather than backing my dies off. The use of the shell holders allows me to square the die body with the shellholder, as per the die instructions, during initial set-up, and then maintain that condition while adjusting case length for optimum head-space. As mentioned by Aussie, partial sizing in a FL die has, for me, created a condition of excessive shoulder length. I usually get a half dozen or so reloads out of a case before tossing it by using this procedure. I also generally use the most accurate load I can find, which is usually not the max load. The exception to this is a .300 Jarrett I use for elk. It shoots well using max loads. I still get that half dozen reloads, but shoulder length is critical. If I FL resize more often than necessary, or more than the .001 or so for smooth bolt operation, I start getting thin case walls just above the belt. That's my $.02. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]