Re: Accurizing a Ruger?
As a gunsmith I make it a poitn to tell my customers that if they bring in a rifle like the one above, they will still be dealing with all the factory componants even if I totally accurize the rifle.
To the shooter, this may sound like a cop out for a gunsmith, but to be honest, we have to take what we are give(a factory rifle) , true it up the best we can in the critical areas that we can, which when keeping the factory barrel is not a hole lot, and we are expected to make them shoot 1/2 moa groups just because we square up the barrel shoulder and the bolt lugs and such.
People tend to forget the bullet still has to travel down the same factory bore.
If the rifle is to be rechambered, we can usually get the new chamber much better then the original as far as on axis with the bore but very rarely will it be perfect.
When we rechamber, we run our match grade, live piloted reamer into the original chamber. Long before the piloted reamer even reaches the bore, the reamer starts to cut on the walls of the old chamber.
Whatever misalignments there are with the original chamber will be there to some degree as the reamer will follow this old chamber until its pilot is supported by the bore.
So I tell my customers this. If you want a tack driver, gt rid of the factory barrel and lets do it right.
If you just want a load or two that will shoot well then accurizing is a good way to go.
I just like to inform my customers before they get to far under the dream that all factory rifles can be machined into the next 100 yard BR winner. That simply is not the case, ever with factory barrels and most factory receivers.
Realistic expectations are more valuable then most other things in life.
Allen Precision Shooting
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