Scope mounting for dummies

[Greywolf18]

I got a really dumb question for everyone. I recently bought a rifle scope with target turrets to put on my AR varmint rifle. My question is, I know all scopes only have so many clicks they can move up/down/left/right, so how do I center the scope when mounting so I use as little amount of clicks as possible? I know you are always going to have to adjust some, but I'm trying to minimize the amount I use for zeroing the rifle to allow the most available clicks for actually shooting. I've never used target turrets before and have always just zeroed the scope at 200 yards and used a best guess for hold over. However, this is a varmint rig and don't want to really do that anymore for long range shots. Thanks for the help!

[Jim Oliver]

If the scope is new, the adjustments "should" be centered.

To determine the adjustment center, turn the windage adjustment all the way in either direction. (Be careful/gentle------it is easy to jam some adjustments at the end of the range.)

After stopping at the end of the adjustment range, turn the adjustment all the way in the other direction------count the turns. Then place the adjustment at the middle of the range by turning it back half way. Do the same for the other adjustment and you are done.

Cheers,
Jim

[Greywolf18]

I was referring to when initially mounting it onto the rifle. So once I put it on the rifle and don't have to do 20-30 clicks up/down/left/right to get it zeroed. I know I'll have to click some, but trying to keep it down to minimal.

[Jim Oliver]

Since I don't know what mount/rings you are using, I would say be sure you begin with the scope adjustments centered and then use any adjustments of the base or rings to get as close as possible before moving the scope internal adjustments.

If you have a collimator, you can bore sight the scope using the base and/or ring adjustments to get "on paper" before actually shooting the rifle.

Jim

[britz]

If memory searves, you can put the objective lense square against a mirror and see the reflection and the actual crosshairs. align them and your scope is centered.

Also, I am not an AR shooter, but if you take the upper off of the lower, can you see through the bore from the chamber through the muzzle? if so than you can basically "bore site" the rifle with your eye by putting the rifle on something solid like sand bags and bi pod and looking though the bore to find a target to look at a couple hundred yards away.

Simply shift the scope so the crosshairs are pointed at the same spot as the bore line. This should get you close enough to hit paper at 50 and will keep you within reason for adjustment range on your scope.

good luck.

[specweldtom]

If you have an AR, I guess it is an AR-15 or equivalent. If that's the case, the flat-top or riser top upper is going to have a Picatinny rail, using Weaver style rings. Should be well centered for windage when you mount it. Like Jim says, a new scope should be mechanically zeroed out of the box. If not, zero it like he said, very gently. At 20 yds, adjust it to impact approx 2" below P.O.A. It should then print at 100 yds. Once you find it, set it where you want it at 100 yds and start shooting for groups. Then using the most accurate load, move out to 200 and set it. Most target scopes will then let you zero the knobs. If it is a .223, the 200 yd zero is a good place to leave it, and then shoot for your come-up at whatever ranges you expect to hunt. Write your clicks down (or #'s and clicks) at each of those ranges, so you don't forget them. Lots of ways to keep them with the gun, like type up a card and tape it to the near side of the buttstock toward the back, using good clear packing tape. You're on your own doping wind, I wouldn't give anyone advice on that. It's a learned skill.

There's probably lots of better ways to bring an AR in, but this is one way.

Good hunting, Tom

On edit; britz, I got to try the mirror thing. It seems that you might also be able to watch reticle tracking that way!