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Oehler 35p question

 
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  #1  
Old 04-06-2004, 12:02 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: WA
Posts: 5
Oehler 35p question

Ok I want a Chronograph. I did a search and it looks like this is the one to get. It's a little more $$ than I was wanting to spend. but O.K. I really don't like junk. So the 35p it will be.

My question is what do I need. they offer a few options. do I need the one with the printer? it don't look like the kit comes with a stand. do I need theirs or will something I have work. can some one give me some pointers of what I nead for starting and what a guy can pick up later. the case looks like it would be nice extra to get.

thanks.

Kris [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
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  #2  
Old 04-06-2004, 01:09 PM
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 2,410
Re: Oehler 35p question

We covered the Oehler very thoroughly in the past, just do a SEARCH and you will find good info on what to buy and how to use the machine.
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  #3  
Old 04-06-2004, 06:00 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Stamford NY
Posts: 160
Re: Oehler 35p question

Kris,

I went with out the printer, you can buy alot of pencils/paper and lots more shooting for $120.

Brian
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  #4  
Old 04-06-2004, 06:40 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,133
Re: Oehler 35p question

IMO, the printer is well worth the money. As the paper is coming up, I'm jotting loads & notes on it. The quick and handy summary provides a lot of handy info, and I don't have a bunch of disconnected notes when I get home.

I prefer the 2' bar w/o stands. I use my own camera tri-pod which works perfectly. Using the 4' bar should be slightly more accurate but requires 2 stands and a long bar to carry around. I just don't think that it's worth the hassle.

I would add that this is my 4th chronograph. If I had bought the Oehler 35P first I would have only had to buy one. Spend the extra bucks and you will be glad that you did.

VH
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  #5  
Old 04-07-2004, 02:07 AM
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 2,539
Re: Oehler 35p question

I don't like junk either, and the 35P sweet, so is the M43.

I'd pass on their case for it, cheap junk is all. I wrap the cords around skreen one and two and keep the stands and diffusers in a soft rifle case.

I pretty much abuse the hell out of my screens, but they're pretty well protected from damage in the lexan cases that they're housed in.

Two stands makes it easier than the tripod to set up and get aligned IMO, and a 4' rail is the only way to go for accurate readings. I pay very little attention to the proof readings from the two foot screen because it always jumps around a bit here and there on me, the 4' screen is always stable and predictable.

Ian's laser trick to getting the screens set up works the very best too! Don't use the diffusers unless it's a clear blue sky and you'll get best performance... they are NEEDED in a blue sky though, so I keep them in the case with my stands so I always have them for the blue (low light intensity) days.

I'd get the printer, for the reasons already stated, pretty much sums up my thoughts on it too. Get their 4' rail, comes with indents for each screen to exactly space them along the rail, which is handy.

ALWAYS double check to make sure your bore line is ABOVE the screens when setting up, then triple check to make sure you double checked! [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

I have a method for setting it up at the target perfectly if you ever get to checking downrange velocity to check your actual BC's.

Enjoy!
__________________
Brent Moffitt
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  #6  
Old 04-07-2004, 09:59 AM
Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Saginaw
Posts: 80
Re: Oehler 35p question

Brent, Ian, did a search and didn't find anything on setting up with a laser. Either of you two care to share your secret????
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  #7  
Old 04-07-2004, 12:03 PM
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 2,410
Re: Oehler 35p question

Al,
I have found that the best, most consistent readings occur when the screens are perfectly parallel to the bullet path, and the bullet is very close to the top of the screen. My screen holder system is adjustable up and down and in an arc for leveling - I found that 1/4" movement up or down to con-incide with the bullet path will significantly improve the consistency (closeness of the 2 readings).
When light gets low and I want to get a few more readings I shoot as close as possible to the screen tops.
Skyscreens are very easy to repair - replace is a better term. Only major problem which would kill them is shooting the little eye, or cutting the cable going into the body. I haven't shot the eye yet, but did cut a cable with a muzzleloader sabot once.
I use a plywood shield at the muzzle end, a piece of plywood on a light stand to protect the screen body from muzzeloader sabots. Sabots and shotgun wads are hell on diffusers, shoot without them if possible.
Downrange I stand a 2'x4' piece of 3/8's or even 1/2" steel plate in front of the setup to deflect low shots. Big enough to protect the camera tripods and screen. Have it so the bullet just clears and will go over the screen. I spray paint a dot to show where the center of the screen is behind the big plate.
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