I had a Sendero 300rum that shot a nice, tight 3.5inch group at 100 yards at best with handloads. It fouled worse than anything I have ever seen. I was not too sure about the Final Finnish deal, but I had nothing to lose. I shot the whole works through it and improved my group size to 2inches. Yes it did improve my accuracy by far, but it was far from acceptable. Now my gun is in the hands of Fifty for a Lilja makeover.
RHB, it seems that I have a knack for buying Sendero's with rough bores. My 25-06 was terrible but FF helped big time.
I want to make sure that I get this right. I have a 700VS in
22-250 that is unfired. Should I do a regular break-in session first or just start with the FF process. From what I
am reading it looks like I could go ahead and start with FF, but I want to be sure.
You will not make peace with the Blue Coats, you are free to go.
Nomo-S , just clean it very well making sure there is no copper afterward, and then start the F.F. Even brand new factory guns are loaded with copper from the test shots. you'll love the results with F.F. ---RHB---
[ QUOTE ] I have found a great method for water cooling is to get a rag and some isopropyl alcohol and rub the barrel down. This will not warp wood stocks, will cool because well it's a liquid, will evaporate, thus not leaving a mess, will draw heat out of the barrel when it evaporates, and only costs 99 cents for a pretty large bottle that will last me 3-4 range sessions. I also use a pretty liberal ammount on the rag at each time.
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Great idea. I've been using water on a cloth for years (on my guns with synthetic stocks - those with wood I'm just careful not to soak the stock). [ QUOTE ]
I and a friend of mine have been using this for quite some time. I usually run a few patches of CR-10 down the barrel to at least attempt to cool from the inside.
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Not necessary. Metal is such an efficient conductor, it only takes seconds for the barrel to reach thermal equilibrium.
For my 308 Rem (typical factory pipe) should I start with five #2's, then all the higher numbers (cleaning between # changes per the directions)?
B.B. Unless the bbl is really rough and noticeably tough to clean, the #3s on up will work great. Doing a few #2s to start with like Roy did will make you feel confident about getting all the machine marks eliminated but in most cases the #2s are not needed.