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Heating a reloading/gun room

 
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  #1  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:40 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northwest Ohio
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Heating a reloading/gun room

The upstairs of my shop is where I do my reloading and store my guns. Moved them out there this summer and also installed a air conditioner to keep things cool. So for this winter I am going to have to install some sort of heating unit. The room is about 350 sq. ft. And is insulated.

Question is what is the difference between convection heat and radiant heat. The heater will be a propane type heated. And I know I will have to put
A humidifier in the room. What would you guys use the will put heat out and won't cost that much to run.

Jason

P.S.: The building was already built when I bought the place so I would have put
heat in the floor some how.
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  #2  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:53 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: S.E. Michigan
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Re: Heating a reloading/gun room

You can still put heat in the floor (my preferred method). You can purchase pre plumbed PEX panels that attach to the underside of the sub floor. Insulate below the panels so you aren't heating the lower level's ceiling, add a hot water tank, circulation pump and zone valves and you are good to go (provided that you can access the upper sub floor from the lower level.

I heat my entire shop with a small HWH on propane. Mine is in the slab so once the slab is warm, the HWH can maintain my set temperature (usually 70) with no issue.

Unlike other heat methods, it's continually comfortable and no temperature swings.
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  #3  
Old 09-03-2012, 11:06 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,441
Re: Heating a reloading/gun room

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornchuck View Post
The upstairs of my shop is where I do my reloading and store my guns. Moved them out there this summer and also installed a air conditioner to keep things cool. So for this winter I am going to have to install some sort of heating unit. The room is about 350 sq. ft. And is insulated.

Question is what is the difference between convection heat and radiant heat. The heater will be a propane type heated. And I know I will have to put
A humidifier in the room. What would you guys use the will put heat out and won't cost that much to run.

Jason

P.S.: The building was already built when I bought the place so I would have put
heat in the floor some how.

I would recommend a convection type heater with 'NO' open flames.

There are good electric heaters that the element never gets read hot (Like the better hair driers)
and if it gets tiped over it automatically shuts off.

I use one in my deer camp trailer and it has a thermostat that I can control the Temperature.
In 20o weather it will keep my trailer a comfortable 68o and still cycle on and off.

Even the catalytic propane heaters have open flames and produce carbon monoxide.

Radiant heaters do get red hot and only warm objects in front of them.

With gun powder, you can't be to safe.

J E CUSTOM
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2012, 12:48 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: S.E. Michigan
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Re: Heating a reloading/gun room

I'd better add that my propane fired HWH is in an entirely different part of the building. With Pex heat, the heat source don't have to be where the heat is transfered (used).

My system is full of propolyene glycol (RV Antifreeze) so if by chance there was a malfunction, the system won't freeze in subfreezing weather. I ran about 300 gallons of propane last year heating the shop plus the office and the motorcycle storage area. Much cheaper than electricity for radiant heat. The big plus is the floors are warm. Warm feet is everything.
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  #5  
Old 09-04-2012, 12:52 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Texas
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Re: Heating a reloading/gun room

Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
I'd better add that my propane fired HWH is in an entirely different part of the building. With Pex heat, the heat source don't have to be where the heat is transfered (used).

My system is full of propolyene glycol (RV Antifreeze) so if by chance there was a malfunction, the system won't freeze in subfreezing weather. I ran about 300 gallons of propane last year heating the shop plus the office and the motorcycle storage area. Much cheaper than electricity for radiant heat. The big plus is the floors are warm. Warm feet is everything.

That sounds like a first class system !!!

About the coldest it gets down hear is 20o and it only stays that cold for 6 or 8 days a year, so the
electric heater works fine and maintains well.

I have heard of hot water systems working well in the floor also.

The main point was not to have open flame heaters in with all of that powder and primers.

Down hear, radiant heaters are only used in large work areas where it would be impossible
to heat up the entire building. The radiant heaters are normally pointed/aimed at the work
stations to help the employee.

J E CUSTOM
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2012, 04:15 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
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Re: Heating a reloading/gun room

I use a small 120vac, 750 watt/1500 watt thermostat controlled "milk house" heater. Nothing glows, and a small fan blows the warm air. Sometimes I also use a fan aimed at the ceiling to circulate warm air that collects in the ceiling. The heater has a tip-over cutoff switch. It's not very efficient, and slow to heat a room, but safe. There are much larger "milk house" heaters too, that run on 240vac.

Tom
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  #7  
Old 09-04-2012, 04:26 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 3,464
Re: Heating a reloading/gun room

Quote:
Originally Posted by J E Custom View Post
That sounds like a first class system !!!

About the coldest it gets down hear is 20o and it only stays that cold for 6 or 8 days a year, so the
electric heater works fine and maintains well.

I have heard of hot water systems working well in the floor also.

The main point was not to have open flame heaters in with all of that powder and primers.

Down hear, radiant heaters are only used in large work areas where it would be impossible
to heat up the entire building. The radiant heaters are normally pointed/aimed at the work
stations to help the employee.

J E CUSTOM
Quote:
Originally Posted by specweldtom View Post
I use a small 120vac, 750 watt/1500 watt thermostat controlled "milk house" heater. Nothing glows, and a small fan blows the warm air. Sometimes I also use a fan aimed at the ceiling to circulate warm air that collects in the ceiling. The heater has a tip-over cutoff switch. It's not very efficient, and slow to heat a room, but safe. There are much larger "milk house" heaters too, that run on 240vac.

Tom
Both you guys are lucky. It gets darn cold here and stays cold (except last winter) and the OP isn't that far from me and in the same temperate zone. December, January, February and early March are cold, usually many days below freezing and some days below 0, with snow and more snow. I tend to sit in front of the fire and vegitate.

No matter what system he uses, he will still have to have a humidifier because any heating drives out the moisture. You ideally want the ambient RH at 50% or a bit better. keeping a room 60 with 50% humidity 'feels' comfortable when a room at 60 with 30% RH feels cold. Reason being is that at 30% RH, your body's fluids are evaporating off your skin and making you feel cold. At 50% RH, that don't happen and you feel comfortable

Electric heat of any type id the most costly per BTU created with oil second, propane third and coal last. Free heat is a woodlot out back but most folks don't have that. With a woodlot and an outside boiler and heat exchangers in the building, heat is basically free.
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